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Dogleg Crack T 
Hodor Said Hodor T 

Hodor Said Hodor 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Matthew Morriss and Jack Lazar
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 807
Submitted By: Morrismc on Apr 15, 2013

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Me leading off the top of pitch 2, headed up and a...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Red Rocks has got to be one of the few climbing areas so immediately proximal to a big urban center where a climber can still say “well that crack looks cool, it’s not in the guide book, lets go climb it!” and still discover a fun first ascent. This climb was super fun, provided adventure, thoughtful climbing, SHADE, and good views. We think this is a first ascent as we could find no other reference to it, but if someone else climbed it way back when, we’d love to hear about that adventure!

Pitch 1: (The first pitch of Dogleg Crack) The pitch that climbs the vertical and then right leaning crack. Fun jams and solid face holds with good protection makes this pitch one of the most fun of the climb! Belay on a great ledge in steep corner. 40 m 5.7.

Pitch 2: Climb right facing corner just off of the ledge. Follow this crack for 20 m, avoiding the roof on right. As terrain becomes easier, move right following thin patina face climbing. Climb through single small tree wedged in crack, pull the tree! And belay on awesome ledge with great views! 35 m 5.7.

Pitch 3: Move up 10 feet from anchor and then traverse right on fun slabby moves. Follow horizontal crack right for ~40 ft until easier ground appears above. Then head straight up to large ledge with trees, passing by the first ledge with large blocks, but no trees! Keep going, it’s worth it. Belay at base of next cliff. 30 m 5.7.

Pitch 4: Move up from ledge to the right of three obvious cracks. Pull awkward fist crack (5.9) up onto ledge. Ledge your way up and then left at the back of the ledge, then continue on upward. Belay at large tree that was visible from the ground. 20 m 5.9.

Pitch 5. Walk back from tree to right facing corner that goes straight up. Tenuous moves on thin edges (5.8) leads to easier ground. After topping out walk back for good belay spot on HUGE ledge. 20 m 5.8.

Congratulations you’ve made it to the top of Hodor Said Hodor! Enjoy the ledge, keep going up and put up your own new route! Or make your way down the “obvious descent” gulley to the right.

Descent: Make your way down and to the right. Following the largest gully. Eventually the gully cliffs out on the right, there is a smaller gully to the left, follow this gully through thick trees. You should reach our rappel station (slung trees with biner). Rappel for 20 meters and then pass large broken tree (here it gets interesting). Move rappellers right into the gully and still further into the chimney on the right side of the gully, continue down until you find firm ground in a tight slot. Careful pulling those ropes!

Now it gets fun!

Move down the easy ground in the gully until you reach a thread through with 6mm cord and a rap ring. Rappel through chimney to terra firma! Walk around the base of the cliff to grab your gear

Location 

Approach: park in the Icebox Canyon parking lot and follow the main trail for anywhere to a quarter mile to half a mile. There are several “trails” that peel off to the left and descend to the creek. Cross the creek and choose your own adventure to approach the buttress. The first pitch is identifiable as it is behind a large white boulder. Climb up to a ledge just below the first pitch.

Protection 

A single rack to 4 should suffice + RPs.
All natural anchors


Photos of Hodor Said Hodor Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo with pitch descriptions
BETA PHOTO: Topo with pitch descriptions
Rock Climbing Photo: Jack's so ready for a first ascent.
Jack's so ready for a first ascent.
Rock Climbing Photo: what a rats nest of tat. anchor for the first rapp...
BETA PHOTO: what a rats nest of tat. anchor for the first rapp...
Rock Climbing Photo: jack scouting descent options
BETA PHOTO: jack scouting descent options
Rock Climbing Photo: Jack at the "summit"
Jack at the "summit"
Rock Climbing Photo: Jack (on the left) and me (on the right) atop Hodo...
Jack (on the left) and me (on the right) atop Hodo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at gear options on the beginning of pitch ...
Looking at gear options on the beginning of pitch ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jack leading off on pitch 4
Jack leading off on pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: lookin' up at pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: lookin' up at pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Jack following Pitch 1
Jack following Pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: jack and I on the approach to the route.
BETA PHOTO: jack and I on the approach to the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading off on the first pitch
Me leading off on the first pitch

Comments on Hodor Said Hodor Add Comment
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 15, 2013

Cool looking line- looks like you guys added to Dogleg Crack (which is the first pitch of your route) if you're curious about whether anyone had climbed it before. Probably just the first pitch- congrats on several more!

mountainproject.com/v/dogleg-c...
By Morrismc
From: Portland, Or
Apr 15, 2013

Mr. Wilder,
Thanks for the info! That is indeed the first pitch of our climb. We were wondering how anyone could have missed the crack that made the first pitch. Such a fun adventure!

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