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Hodgepodge Rock - North Face
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Hodgepodge 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c R [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 867
Submitted By: M. Morley on Oct 22, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: Hodgepodge Rock - North Side

Description 

This is not a route to lead, unless you're prepared to solo it. However, as a toprope, it is popular with institutions due to it's north-facing aspect.

Take the path of least resistance up the featured face.

Descent: scramble off to the west (some downclimbing).


Protection 

None if leading. For toproping: large hexes (or cams), thread-through, long webbing. 2 new bolts on the top of the formation can be extended and used.


Photos of Hodgepodge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Hodgepodge". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Hodgepodge". Photo by Blitzo.

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By Blitzo
Sep 7, 2006

Excellent 5.4. Great solo! Quality rock. Exciting downclimb, my favorite way down off the rock.
By Isaac T.
From: Yokosuka, Japan
Dec 26, 2006
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R

Got 1 marginal cam in about 20' up, bring really small stuff, better yet just solo it. Fun climb though, you can use the bolts from the South face of Bakersfield bomb to rap off or set up top rope, or large cams.
By Josh Hibbard
From: Los Angeles Area, CA
Mar 27, 2007

To make this climb more challenging, I tied in with a bowline on a coil and climbed it in my flip-flops under the light of the moon. It felt like a 5.8 under the circumstances.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X

You may or may not die from the various internal injuries from falling on this, so it really is either a solo or TR. Super juggy and fun for the family/noobs
By Dave Kos
From: Temecula, CA
Feb 18, 2014
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R

On lead I was able to get some gear in about 20' from the bottom (1/4 inch cam) and a couple of micro nuts at the prominent horizontal seam. The left facing corner near the top protects well.

This route is easy but definitely runout with the potential for a 30+ foot groundfall. Certainly an R, and could be an X.

From the ground, the horizontal seam looks like it will take some medium-sized cams, but it is too shallow. The only gear that I could make work were some very small nuts (DMM peanuts.)
By Royce Robertson
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 4, 2016

There's solid bolts and rings on this. Wish more people would note this for the total noobs like me wondering ;)

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