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Blowing Bubbles S,TR 
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Dismal Abysmal S,TR 
Donkey Dong S,TR 
High On Testosterone T,S 
Hocus S,TR 
Jail Bird S,TR 
Krokus S,TR 
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Hocus 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: David Caunt
Page Views: 779
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jul 7, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

This climb is located directly above Krokus.

The start is from the block with Krokus' top anchors, and a belayer should probably be clipped into these anchors to avoid falling to the bottom of the south side (50+ feet) in the event that the first bolt on the route blows.

This slab climb has an interesting beginning move to get from a large flake onto a slab that has literally no holds on it. Getting from the first to the second bolt is terrifying, and run out. A fall in this area will send you tumbling over the roof, which would not be fun.

The crux seemed to be from above the first bolt to 4 feet shy of the top anchor.

If you don't trust your feet, don't do this climb!

Protection 

2 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.


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By Hank Sato
Sep 20, 2002

This is rather a very awkward route for me! If you are only pulling plastics in the gym, you will find this route very difficult as this requires a lot of balancy and interesting moves that you do not encounter in the gym. I put a longer sling to the 2nd bolt to avoid the potential groundfall.

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