REI Community
Main Cliff East
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Can't hang 
Cottonmouth T,TR 
Diamondback T,TR 
Dicey For A Deuce 
Dicey For A Tres 
Fun Route, The 
Hocus Pocus 
Jump for Joy 
Perch, The 
Project Cave 
Smack Down 
Unsorted Routes:

Hocus Pocus 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: Pi
Page Views: 136
Submitted By: Remo on Aug 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jim attempting the project.

Quincy and at least parts of rattlesnake are state natural areas and thus closes to climbing. Please respect the ban.


Starts on descent holds and moves up into no-mans land with horrible feet.


Head past the saddle and turn right. Problem is on steep face with a boulder right in front of it. Chaos is to the left of this.



Comments on Hocus Pocus Add Comment
Show which comments
By SteveSchultz
Mar 20, 2009

Very hard and very cool looking. It's just to the right of Chaos. The line follows a really thin seam pretty much the whole way. Cool though.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Feb 3, 2012

Just heard from Peter B. that Pi sent this. No idea on the grade, heard he didn't give one. Anyone else hear about this?
By Ian CB
Aug 8, 2012
rating: V10 7C+

So. Maybe I was missing something, but this is definitely the hardest thing I have pulled on in Wisconsin. It starts sitting on under clings and does a thrutchy move up and right to sharp pockety good holds, and goes straight up via some small and sharp gastons.. and a really hard dyno. Felt really hard. I could not figure it out that is for sure. Props to Pi on a hard and nasty problem!
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Oct 8, 2014

Ian repeated this today. Saw shaky footage and looks amazing. I am sure the better vid will be on vimeo soon... Makes me want to back out to Rattlesnake!
By madisonchoss
Jan 23, 2015
rating: V10+ 7C+

Here are a couple videos showing different methods:

By Hemberger Hemberger
From: Madison, Wisconsin
Jan 24, 2015

Great video Peter. Nice send! I'm psyched to try this one.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About