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Hocus Focus 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Joel O'Connel 1990
Page Views: 1,008
Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 17, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Thanks for the new bolts!


Recently rebolted and cleaned (2015), this old formerly seldom done test piece should now be more appealing. The climbing certainly warrants more attempts. The route follows the thin vertical seam up the steep face, through a couple shallow overlaps to a short bulge and finishing mantel top-out.

Stick clip the first bolt and fire up in to this mega technical adventure. Coming straight off of a very close onsight attempt I have fresh perspective on this one. Right off the ground every foot placement counts. Small edges and smears tictac your feet up the vertical wall. Follow the seam using locks and sidepulls as well as making full use of micro edges hidden off to the sides. As it steepens at the top the holds get better but energy wanes. The grade on this one includes the top out so don't let off the gas until you have solved the tricky mantel move and topped out.


The thin vertical seam with bolts about midway along the crag. Starts above a small ledge.


Recently all rebolted (2015) - 6 SS glue-in bolts to anchor with rings. Stick clipping the first bolt highly recommended.

Photos of Hocus Focus Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: One more from Jeremy abbots pictures yesterday
One more from Jeremy abbots pictures yesterday
Rock Climbing Photo: One from yesterday, I made it to here before I fou...
One from yesterday, I made it to here before I fou...
Rock Climbing Photo: one more shot, sorry i was just amazed that this w...
BETA PHOTO: one more shot, sorry i was just amazed that this w...

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By M Sprague
From: New England
May 27, 2015

The route has been scrubbed up and the bolts and anchors all replaced with SS glue-ins. It is ripping, hard, fingery and technical, a great route if you like that style. The old anchor above still needs to be removed and the topout could use a little more brushing up, but it should be fine to climb already.

Make sure you mantle the top out and not just tag the anchors for the tick! I am thinking it may be a little stiff for 12c.
By Pat Ronan
Sep 8, 2015

Hopped on it on 9/6, This route was fantastic. The last couple moves are fun, but not nearly as enjoyable and clean as the first 5 bolts. For technical vert climbing, this is an awesome route.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 28, 2015

Just barely missed the onsight yesterday... really nice technical climb... I managed to remove the old anchor junk on top and cleaned it up a tad but it seems like it will need upkeep on the top out... Didn't have energy left and fell at the top on my second go as well... can't wait to finish it up sometime soon :)

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