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Lower Great Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anchor Baby T 
Beside The Seaside T 
Central Buttress/5.7 start T 
Closed Casket S 
DuMais Route T 
Green Wave, The T,S 
Hobbits Way T 
Left Center T 
Pyramid Scheme S 
Ramshorn T 
Tribal Regions T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Hobbits Way 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rich Kelly & Gordon Laurens (Sept. 20, 2015)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 78
Submitted By: Rich Kelly on Jul 15, 2016

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Description 

This is a variation on Left Center route that diverges left part way up pitch 2 of it. Solid enjoyable and well-protected climbing.

P1. Do either start to Left Center.

P2. Start up P2 of Left Center, but when you get to the base of the crux stemming flake/corner, move up and left (crux), and continue straight up obtuse, right-facing corner heading toward a prominent roof (fairly sustained 5.8-9). 20' or so below the roof, look for a way to move left. Move left 20' or so, and set up a hanging belay (rope drag was bad for me at this point and I had little gear left - it is a long pitch), 170'.

P3. Climb straight up eventually to a ledge. Move left on ledge to get up to and into a hanging, right-facing corner (5.8). Follow this corner and the easier ground above it to the top (this will require simul-climbing 20-30' or so) or find a convenient spot to break up this pitch, 200+'.

Location 

Start the same as Left Center route (left of Wizard's Gate).

Protection 

Standard rack.


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