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Hobbit Hole 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

Type:  Boulder, 18'
Original:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
Page Views: 6,434
Submitted By: Ladd on Apr 12, 2007  with updates from Graham O.

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Making the reach on Hobbit Hole


Crux is the beta, work your own out because everyone's is different for this climb. The climb is amongst the majority of the boulders in Boulder Natural (an area referred to as Gandalf's Lair). It is an obvious up and left slanting lower crack the follows the arete and jugs to the top of the boulder (downclimb route). Lots of climbers find the lower sidepull helpful to use with your left hand to pull the crux move out of the horizontal handcrack.


Gandalf's Lair, a.k.a."Boulder Natural" (look for smooth, well-chalked, hand/finger horizontal crack).

[Further info on location: It is located at the outskirts of the Zoo, on the largest boulder in the cluster. It is across the corridor from the obvious lobster tail feature. To the right of 'Hobbit Direct', and just right of 'Texas Chainsaw Massacre'. If you can find The Zoo, just walk through the corridor and you should see the chalked up, left-slanting crack.]


Pads, landing is comfortable

Photos of Hobbit Hole Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The cross move
The cross move
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben on Hobbit Hole
Ben on Hobbit Hole
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top
View from the top
Rock Climbing Photo: Reaching... awesome route
Reaching... awesome route
Rock Climbing Photo: Love that pinky lock.
Love that pinky lock.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hobbit Hole
Hobbit Hole
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting Hobbit Hole.
Starting Hobbit Hole.
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting the feet set.
Getting the feet set.
Rock Climbing Photo: Thought I'd get the whole crack in there... A lot ...
BETA PHOTO: Thought I'd get the whole crack in there... A lot ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave on hobbit hole..
Dave on hobbit hole..
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Harris looking focused on Hobbit Hole....
Matt Harris looking focused on Hobbit Hole....
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt sticking the cross through...and wearing out ...
Matt sticking the cross through...and wearing out ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt on Hobbit Hole....
Matt on Hobbit Hole....
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Thompson on the start of Hobbit Hole V3.
Mike Thompson on the start of Hobbit Hole V3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth doing it the strong man way.
Seth doing it the strong man way.

Comments on Hobbit Hole Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 23, 2016
By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Mar 18, 2008

one of my favorite climbs in the park.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
May 2, 2009

Best V3 I have ever done
By AWinters
From: NH
Oct 27, 2010
rating: V2-3 5+

should feel a lot easier for taller folks. for an added challenge skip the middle moves...
By Tyrel Fuller
From: Denver, CO
May 2, 2011

This problem is certainly not a hand crack, it's a mix of face and fingerlocks. That being said, it is absolutely classic.
By Christopher Gagne
From: Dover
Aug 17, 2011

Maybe my memory is going and maybe it's not but for some strange reason it seems that the really bad foot used to make the cross into the upper crack, of this problem, has grown and got bigger...

Anyone else notice this... I just don't recall the foot being this massive edge...

By Ryan HInrichs
From: amherst new hampshire
Sep 12, 2011

Still trying to figure out the beta for this one. Havent sent it yet, but its still a blast!
By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Dec 19, 2011

Hobbit Hole starting at ~1:00:
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Dec 19, 2011

Hay Eric is that Mr bonnet that teaches in the Pembroke school district?
By Chris McNeil
From: Anchorage, AK
Oct 25, 2012

I was working this the other day, and when I arrived the start he below the crack had a crack in it was popped off with a touch. Although after reading the beta listed it seems that everyone starts on the crack anyways... Certainly doesn't seem to effect the grade
By J Meagher
Nov 13, 2013
rating: V3 6A

If only the feet weren't all so polished.... Either way, great route!
By Graham O.
Jul 23, 2016

Great little problem! Really cool movement.

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