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Hnappavellir Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 63.89245, -16.59474 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,492
Administrators: Muscrat, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Gunkswest on Jan 23, 2016  with updates from Matthew Clausen
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Tóftin hut. Camping area is to the right, and pas...

Description 

Hnappavellir may be the best and biggest rock climbing area in Iceland. It is in the southeast portion of Iceland, near Skaftafell in Vatnajökull National Park. The area has over 100 routes, both sport and trad, from 5.3-5.13.

See klifur.is/crag/hnappavellir for more info.

Getting There 

It is east of Reykjavík in the southeast portion of Iceland, near Skaftafell in Vatnajökull National Park.

Climbing Season

For the Europe area.

Weather station 3.0 miles from here

42 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',0],['5.8',4],['5.9',4],['5.10',11],['5.11',8],['5.12',9],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Hnappavellir
Rock Climbing Photo: Janus, 5.10a

Janus 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Europe : Iceland : ... : 2 Miðskjól
Classic. First route at Hnappavellir to get bolted. Crux is low. Route favors taller climbers....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Hnappavellir Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sun was set, and hard to get a good picture of thi...
Sun was set, and hard to get a good picture of thi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Typical bolt and hangar that you'll find aroun...
BETA PHOTO: Typical bolt and hangar that you'll find aroun...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another common anchor set-up at Hnappavellir
BETA PHOTO: Another common anchor set-up at Hnappavellir
Rock Climbing Photo: Typical anchor set-up for the popular routes.
BETA PHOTO: Typical anchor set-up for the popular routes.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tóftin Hut Rules
BETA PHOTO: Tóftin Hut Rules

Comments on Hnappavellir Add Comment
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By Matthew Clausen
Jan 3, 2017
Drinking water: Some locals will drink water straight from the stream west of the hut, others refuse to after they or friends got sick. The stream runs through farm fields, with sheep and other animals drinking from it. They also shit in and along it.

One winter, an ice climber ventured into the valley at the head of the stream looking for routes, and he found a putrid mass of thousands of sea birds dead along the banks and valley. Some sea birds, I was told, can’t navigate once they lose sight of the coast and this particular valley seems to be a death trap for them. Some locals believe this is the source of intermittent contamination rather than livestock.

A good filter makes it delicious to drink. It's a rather silty, though, and will clog your filter quickly. Another option is to hike all the way to the west end of the cliff face to a confluence, where the water is less silty and you can pump from there. I didn't meet any locals who aren't willing to drink straight from there, but I filtered it anyways. Several tributaries combine there after running through sheep pastures.
Rock Climbing Photo: The stream next to the hut, just above the falls.
The stream next to the hut, just above the falls.
By Matthew Clausen
Jan 18, 2017
While everything here is accessible by foot, there's also a vehicle path that runs the length of the cliff to the confluence at the SW tip.

Follow the path from the hut to lower down the stream and you'll find a fording that's deeper than the one you crossed to get to the hut. Basic passenger vehicles might not make this one.

The farther you go, the more likely you are to encounter problems. Eventually, you'll be 4WD through stretches of flooded mud pit...it's at its worst next to Vatnsból.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking NE (towards the hut area) from Vatnsból p...
Looking NE (towards the hut area) from Vatnsból portion of the road at the base of the cliff. I suggest just walking it, though at some points of the year your boots will get wet in this region. It's part of an irrigation ditch system for the fields.
By Matthew Clausen
Jan 21, 2017
Clip stick? Some of the first clips are a bit high (but not all). If you like the comfort of having the first one clipped, you'll need to bring your own stick clip. There aren't any at the hut, and you're not going to find a tree within miles, so no branches laying around for doing it old school.

You can try to set a TR from the top, as well. Some of the bolted anchors are within an arm's reach of the top, if you want to crawl to the edge and reach over. Use caution: there's nothing to anchor yourself to up top.

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