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Unknown trad T 


YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Spring, Fall
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: Ensign on May 20, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: HMR-6 goes up the low angled arete, through the st...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


I don't really know what this route is named or what the rating is. I just called it Hogwild Mystery Route #6 (HMR-6). I hope somebody can improve on this post. HMR-6 is a fun romp up a low angled arete with with some intriguing moves pinching some long "fins" past a couple fat bolts, a good cam placement, and an old ring-iron piton that looks solid (the pin can be backed up with a size "0" metolius TCU just above, but good luck extracting it). Continue up easy terrain and optional gear placements to a decision - slightly easier trad protected crack and dike climbing through a small overhang on the left or exposed crimping past 2 more bolts sticking to the arete on the right. Once past the cruxy bits, slither up the dike-covered slab to the right of a wide-ish crack to an anchor with Mussy hooks. A 60 meter rope should make the round trip back to the ground but it will be close - knot the free end. You can top rope a fun, easy flared crack ("2-pin crack") to the left off this anchor.


Starts at the base of the white arete a 20ish yards to the left of Better with Bacon.


Depends if you take the crack or the arete option. If you climb the crack it would be good to have 2 x #2 camalots, 2x #3 camalots, and maybe even a #4 if you have angst about an easy runout up high. If you take the bolted arete, a single rack to #3 is good... with the same caveat about the #4.

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