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Unknown trad T 

HMR-6 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Spring, Fall
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: Ensign on May 20, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: HMR-6 goes up the low angled arete, through the st...

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Description 

I don't really know what this route is named or what the rating is. I just called it Hogwild Mystery Route #6 (HMR-6). I hope somebody can improve on this post. HMR-6 is a fun romp up a low angled arete with with some intriguing moves pinching some long "fins" past a couple fat bolts, a good cam placement, and an old ring-iron piton that looks solid (the pin can be backed up with a size "0" metolius TCU just above, but good luck extracting it). Continue up easy terrain and optional gear placements to a decision - slightly easier trad protected crack and dike climbing through a small overhang on the left or exposed crimping past 2 more bolts sticking to the arete on the right. Once past the cruxy bits, slither up the dike-covered slab to the right of a wide-ish crack to an anchor with Mussy hooks. A 60 meter rope should make the round trip back to the ground but it will be close - knot the free end. You can top rope a fun, easy flared crack ("2-pin crack") to the left off this anchor.

Location 

Starts at the base of the white arete a 20ish yards to the left of Better with Bacon.

Protection 

Depends if you take the crack or the arete option. If you climb the crack it would be good to have 2 x #2 camalots, 2x #3 camalots, and maybe even a #4 if you have angst about an easy runout up high. If you take the bolted arete, a single rack to #3 is good... with the same caveat about the #4.


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