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HMR-3 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Spring, Fall
Page Views: 72
Submitted By: Ensign on May 21, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Tricky thin flaring crack climbing leads to widely...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Scurry up easy face climbing to a small left-facing corner where you can get your first gear. Up the right side of this to a slabby, flaring, insecure tips crack with funky gear (this is the thin white line visible in the photo). HB offsets, TCUs, and brassies were useful. Fiddle around with funky gear and holds until you can't protect the crack anymore - then try not to think about that wobbly final runner as you commit to steepening insecure crux moves leading to the first bolt, barely visible from the ground. From there climb fairly easy slab on mostly ok, sometimes dirty holds between widely spaced bolts. A solid Mussy hook anchor awaits on the mossy face above.

Location 

Estimate about 100 yards left (northeast) of the start of Better with Bacon. Look for the thin white flared crack high up on the face above with a bolt at the top.

Protection 

4 bolts. Gear to 2 inches. I found TCUs and HB offsets useful. Good solid Mussy hook anchors on top (many thanks to whoever put this up).


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