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HMR-2 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Spring, Fall
Page Views: 113
Submitted By: Ensign on May 25, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Climb the nice easy slab above a small flake at th...

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Description 

I don't know what this route is called (for lack of a better name I called it "Hogwild Mystery Route #2"). I don't know how hard it is - it felt 5-easy. This is a nice easy romp up a (mostly) clean slab. Good rock quality. Could use some traffic/brushing. I hope somebody who knows about this route can improve on this post.

Location 

About 120 yards to the left (Northeast) of the start of Better with Bacon. Look for bolts high on the face above a small flake at the start. You can see where a pathway was cleaned through the moss. To descend, rap from bolted anchor.

Protection 

4 draws and whatever you like to set up a top anchor if toproping. Let's not gloss over that point: 4 bolts in 100 feet is not your typical sport route. And some of the holds have a little dirt/grit. 30-50 feet is a long way to cartwheel down a slab bouncing off of dikes if you slipped on the grit. You're not going to die on this route, but you could get pretty beaten up. There is a solid, unworn mussy hook anchor on the top. A 60 meter rope should just make the round trip.


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By - Poindexter -
Jul 14, 2017

Could it be Jeff's Folly, rated 5.7? Put up in 1969? Description says, "This climb runs up the slabs right to the broken area on the North Face."

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