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2 pin crack T 
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HMR-1 T 
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HMR-6 T 
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Unknown T 
Unknown trad T 

HMR-1 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Spring, Fall
Page Views: 73
Submitted By: Ensign on May 25, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Start near the base of the shady tree, up to the s...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I don't know what this route is really called or how hard it is. I called it HMR-1 for "Hogwild mystery route #1", hoping somebody can provide better information later. The best I can say for this route is that there is a tree right at the base providing a nice shady hangout for the belayer. From the tree climb up easy slabs to a bolt that looks like it's not in deep enough and it's bent in a manner that is not confidence inspiring. You can back this up with a yellow metolius TCU just under the bolt. Then make a few tricky insecure friction moves above the bolt. This leads to casual, slabby face climbing. There are only 2 bolts protecting the entire route. You can get supplemental gear (0.75 - 1 camalot) up on the face if you traverse out to a flake that feels like it is offroute. It's off on the right side about 15 feet out of line of the bolts - far enough that I didn't notice it until I was on the way back down.

Location 

Starts at a small pine tree up against the base of the cliff about 150 yards to the left/northeast of Better with Bacon.

Protection 

2 draws and whatever gear you like for the chains on the top. You can place a 0.75" narrow-head cam just under the first bolt. You can place a 1.25"-1.75" cam behind a flake off the the right about halfway up the route. I appreciate the work and expense that the folks who put up these routes go through. However, I do think it is important that climbers understand what they are getting themselves into if there is an issue with fixed protection. The 1st bolt and one of the anchor bolts look like the holes were drilled a bit shallow and they are bent off to the left. That being said, the anchor held me!


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By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
May 25, 2017

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