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Hive 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jayson Nissen
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 103
Submitted By: Jayson Nissen on Aug 4, 2016

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Description 

This is the furthest left bolted route on the wall. It starts just left of A Garden Called Peace. Make reachy and technical moves upward using the vertical moon shaped edge. Move slightly right of the dirty gully and continue up and left, passing by the Hive. I am hoping to shore up the dirt in the gully somehow so that the route stays clean. To clip the last bolt on the outside face I go right and make a long reach to clip it then make the fairly easy traverse to the left and around the arette. You could bail out right here very easily. I hug the arette to clip the next bolt then move back left to climb the slab to the top.

Protection 

10 draws and an epipen if you are allergic to bees.


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By Jayson Nissen
From: Corvallis, OR
Aug 4, 2016

The climbing on the route is very engaging and enjoyable. Unfortunately the dirty gully detracts from it, but I hope to deal with that. Pulling around the arette reminds me of alpine climbing, but does add some risk to the climb. The nice thing is that if you don't like it over there you can always bail over to the anchors on the big ledge. Lastly the anchor bolts are carbon steel and I will replace them in the next few months with stainless. I ran out of SS bolts and needed to put in an anchor to clean the route.

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