|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Jon Nelson on Jul 30, 2012|
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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 25, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|This is a fun route and much cleaner as of 2013. fingers to chimney( 1# 4 camalot) tipped out at first, slide it up and back to good spot. to hands to fingers through a roof, to some techy thin crack stemming. I think the chimney is 5.7 and going past the roof is 5.8. One will want several very small cams for the thin crack after the roof.|
By Bill Ayre
Jul 21, 2013
This route is really clean now. I removed the last bit of root ball in the upper part of the dihedral in May I think. Dirt from that just fell through the lower crack in the dihedral which used to be choked. First time I tried this about five years ago I couldn't even get into the dihedral because there was nothing for hands. Now there are great finger locks and good (but small) gear.
I just lead it for the first time on Thursday after having TR'd many times. The chimney which is much easier than Butt-lips on Aries was my concern on gear. I just had to get my head around it and go. It took a #5 but I wish I'd had Geoff's #4 too. Jerry followed with approach shoes he wants to take to the Bugaboos and did fine.
This route is no harder than Timberjack, the upper pitch of Magic Fern, or Aries/Lizard so yes, I think it is a 5.8. It is easier than Toxic Shock, Wet Dream and Battered Sandwich and Plumb Pudding which Geoff agrees is a 5.9. It has great variety and fun moves - I'll keep coming back.
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Sep 14, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thanks for cleaning this! We really enjoyed it. Recent rains have re-deposited a bit of dirt in the finger crack but not enough to render it unusable--I scraped out some with my nut tool but that section will likely need more attention after the wet season to keep it in such nice condition.
I had only a #4 for the chimney which made it feel a little heady (a #5 would have helped, as the #4 was tipped) but it sure is fun --climbs more like an offwidth than a true chimney and facing toward town gives you more options. While the chimney is much more enjoyable than Butt Lips on Aries, I would not call it 5.8. Closer to an honest 5.9, in my opinion. The moves into and through the dihedral were also good.
Extras in blue/green alien size come in handy once you hit the dihedral.
May 17, 2016
|Good and diverse climbing. While a single #4 C4 might be sufficient for the chimney/offwidth, a #5 C4 makes it feel pretty comfortable. I got sucked to the left of the arete closing in on the anchors and it definitely felt like the crux of the route to me. I didn't end at the anchors to Robin's Ramp. It goes with reasonable protection either way.|