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The Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T 
Blurry Eyes T 
Bull Run T 
Fireside Crack T 
Gift, The T 
Ginsu Flake T 
Green Party T 
Green Thumb T 
Greenpeace T 
Hippy Bus T 
House Made of Dawn S 
I'm Still Here T 
Moldy Bolts (open project) T 
Muffin Man, The T 
Remember Me T 
Stewart's Crack T 

Hippy Bus 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mark Sprague
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 529
Submitted By: M Sprague on Sep 30, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Get on the bus, Gus.


The easiest quality line at the crag so far. This line follows the slabby buttress near the left end of the cliff.
Boulder up (technical crux) up a short wall and rock over onto a short bit of slab (bolt) to gain a short easy corner with a hand crack (cam or two). Exit the corner and follow bolts up the high quality stone of the buttress until you reach another short band of featured steeper rock. Follow this up and right making use of the hand cracks (a couple more cams) to a bolted anchor. Fun!


Far left side of the Main Wall, about 25 feet left of the right facing corner of Remember Me that is 40' up on the wall. The trail around to the far left has gotten partially camouflaged by a fallen tree who's root ball you now have to ascend.


5 SS 3/8"Fixe bolts and a handful of 3/4" to 2" cams, quickdraws and a few slings. The anchor bolts (1/2" SS Rawl 5 pc) currently just have a biner on each (forgot the quicklinks), so if you have a couple spare 3/8" or bigger quicklinks or biners bring them along. A spot for the start is nice, particularly if it is anywhere near your limit, since it is hard to stick clip the first bolt.

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By Emmett Lyman
From: Somerville, MA
Oct 17, 2016

Climbed as a warmup. Surprisingly committing for a mostly bolted climb with lots of slab moves.

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