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Hippophobia 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dougald MacDonald, Mark Jenkins, David Goldstein, Bruce Normand
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 141
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Mar 13, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Mark Jenkins doing the crux slab traverse on Hippo...

Description 

Hippophobia is a varied and interesting full-length route that can be done in one long pitch with careful rope management or else two shorter pitches. It still has some dirt in a few of the cracks, despite cleaning, but the key moves and protection are all good.

Start with an obvious, fun, flake crack past a small pine eight feet up. Continue up this crack system and place gear high, then traverse left across slab with your hands at the level of a small, arching overlap (crux). Two good nuts can be placed in the middle of the overlap, but a high piece on the right is probably adequate pro—be sure to clip with a long sling. Climb the right-facing corner with crack-face moves to an alcove with a small bush. Belay near here or continue up then left to a shallow crack leading to the left center of the big roof system at the top of the cliff. Step right (tricky) and climb a slot through two bulges to an easier finish and belay at big pine on top. The lower crux is 5.10-something, and the upper part is 5.9-ish.

Rappel with two ropes from the pine. If you have just one rope (60m-plus!), top out, scramble down the ridge about 100 feet, and rappel from bolts at the top of Feeling Loopy and Glue Factory (a little tricky to reach the bolts). If you have two ropes, it's best to rap from the pine.

Location 

Start just right of prow that creates a low point in the cliff between Glue Factory/Charlie Horse and Oh Wilbur.

Protection 

Standard rack.


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