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Upper Tier - Right End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bungasana S 
Chockstone (aka:Captain's Crack) T 
Dr. Dias T 
Featherweight Champion S 
Hippie With a Hand Grenade S 
Mal Bouche T 

Hippie With a Hand Grenade 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Dylan Oliver, September 22, 2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 186
Submitted By: Kris Fiore on Sep 22, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Hippie With a Hand Grenade (5.11c/d).

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  • Description 

    An awesome pitch and one that should clean up to be a really popular route. We were pretty torn on the grade as the roof is definitely hard to grade. Seemed about as hard as Cat's Ass or Afro Samurai which are both 11d.

    Clip a high bolt after climbing a flake for 20 ft. Runout but it's 5.5 moves with jugs. Currently there is a botched bolt so clip the higher of the two. Move up and left to surmount a stance below a face with two very different cruxes to navigate before reaching another stance below the roof. Clip the fixed draw and get ready for the business. Tackle the short but powerful roof and lip above and enjoy the view! 2-bolt anchor.

    As always with my new routes I'm wavering on the grade. Input always helpful!

    Location 

    Right of Bungassana and left of Birch Tree Corner. Starts at a massive flake below a high bolt. 7 bolts.

    Protection 

    Sport, fixed draw at the roof so get on it!


    Comments on Hippie With a Hand Grenade Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Greg Kuchyt
    From: Richmond, VT
    Sep 28, 2016

    What happened at the first bolt?
    By Kris Fiore
    Administrator
    From: Burlington, Vermont
    Sep 28, 2016

    It just started spinning (bolt and nut together) while tightening it. A true spinner.

    As for why, it appears that something may have been wrong with my drill bit or drill. When I spun it on the ground afterward it the bit seemed to have some play in it as if it was slightly bent.

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