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Hip, Hip, Hurray 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright, 3/07
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,000
Submitted By: Mark Tarrant on Apr 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Big move.

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Climb the overhanging, orange face on the right wall of the dihedral. It is hard and crimpy down low with a few jugs in the middle. Arc right onto the prow near the top, finishing with a problematic mantle. The space between bolts 2 and 3 isn't as terrible as it looks--you'll clip from a huge jug--still, the belayer should be alert here. The mantle could be the crux, but it becomes nearly automatic once you figure it out.


This is on the right wall of the dihedral.


5 bolts, 2-bolt anchor

Photos of Hip, Hip, Hurray Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Awkward mantel, anyone?
Awkward mantel, anyone?
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin sticking the lip.
Kevin sticking the lip.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin stylin' the long reaches.
Kevin stylin' the long reaches.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crimps!
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up Hip, Hip, Hurray.
Starting up Hip, Hip, Hurray.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ropes hanging off Hip, Hip, Hurray and The Hipster...
Ropes hanging off Hip, Hip, Hurray and The Hipster...

Comments on Hip, Hip, Hurray Add Comment
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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
May 24, 2007
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Hip, Hip, Hurray is an excellent, steep (!!!!), and powerful route on nearly perfect rock. That Mark finds it closer to 12b than to 12c or 12d may reflect my presently bum hip and now diminished flexibility or simply his having caught too much sun at this crag. This route is steep, or did I already indicate that (?), really steep. What look like good edges from below turn out to be very hard to use and super finger intensive. Even the one slolt is hard to use. After six months of bouldering on plastic, I'd call the moves V4+ to start, V5, V3, and V6 to finish on a sick mantle that pitches you out over the steepest part of the arete. If that doesn't stack up to 12c/d it's hard to imagine what does. By reference, H3 is at least as hard, or harder than Amazing Face at the Bowling Alley in Boulder Canyon, and every bit as good.
By Josh Jones
From: Denver, CO
Jul 6, 2011

Does anyone know the beta after the 2nd bolt? I've tried a dyno up the face. What about going off right towards the arete? HELP!!!
By Mark Tarrant
Jul 7, 2011

Josh: first, forget going to the arete until two bolts higher. If you've done the hard move to get your fingers in the horizontal slot, the next move is a l-o-n-g reach with the left hand to a good edge. The key for a static reach is to start with both feet on good holds and then stem the left foot way out onto the wall of the dihedral -- then you'll be stable (long legs help). Otherwise, you'll have to toss for it and keep from swinging off. Clip carefully off the jug one move higher. Have you done the upper mantle?
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 7, 2011

That also sounds about the way I have done it, Mark. I do remember quite a lock off to reach the hold. But I do not think I used the other wall for feet! I have quite a reach though (6'2", +4" ape). Josh, I will try to dig up a pic or two of my sequence.

And as far as the mantle?! The way I did it was the way a monkey would a football!
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Apr 19, 2012
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

This is a fun route and provides tons of entertainment, both for the climber and the spectators. Watching people mantel over the nose looks just like it feels, and is hilarious to watch. The rating may be height-dependent, I wouldn't want to make that long reach in the middle without every inch of the 6' I've got.
By Kai Huang
From: Aurora, CO
May 30, 2015

Finally got to try it today. Hate to pull the height card, but it sure is quite a bit harder between 2 and 3 bolt at 5'5". A dyno would suck, because your fingers might get caught in the slot. I ended up locking off left hand with high right foot, then pulled on some sloping 45 degree sloper thing, and bumped a right hand to the edge, matched, and went for jugs. Even the opening moves were hard if short. I had to stem the left wall for a bit until I got my left hand in a slot hold and reached out right to clip 2nd bolt.

FYI, if you are short like me, stick clip 1 and 2.

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