||Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 200'
|Original: ||WI3-4 [details]|
|Page Views: ||768|
|Submitted By: ||TheIceManCometh on Mar 14, 2015|
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Hillyer is usually one of the earliest spots in th...
A great route if you like a good approach coupled with excellent ice. The approach is about an hour (more in deep snow), so this wouldn't be a good choice if you like to climb right from your car. On the other hand, you'll get somewhat more of an alpine experience coupled with some great 3+ ice pitches.
There are four pitches (WI3-4) that vary from 30-50 feet. Pitch 1 is about 30', pitch 2 is about 40', pitch 3 is about 50' and pitch 4 is 30-40' (broken up by a large ledge). You can generally vary the difficulty of the climbing by which portion of the face you choose.
Hillyer, Viola, Wildcat and Buttermilk all face north, so are more likely to come in early and stay late (although Wildcat is the most narrow, so will open up most quickly as melting water degrades the ice).
Park in the same area as for Moore's Bridge. It holds 4-5 cars if you use the entire space. Either walk up the road until you hit the actual Moore's Bridge and then turn left and up the obvious ravine or from the parking area angle up and to the climber's right until you intersect the ravine. As mentioned before, it's a hour's approach. As you make your approach, look for the old/narrow logging road that will help your ascent. If the Catskills has gotten good snow fall take snow shoes.
4-6 screws. You can belay from trees on all pitches (but you may need to set a directional at the top of the pitch for the follower).
Rappelling the 2nd pitch.
The big pitch (I call it pitch 2) in fat, mid-Marc...