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Hillbilly Sex Farm 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Blaze Davis
Page Views: 3,083
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Apr 19, 2010

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The first bolt is missing a hanger. You can climb up the start of Tapeworm, 5.9 to the right and then traverse in left to join the climb below the second bolt. After the traverse, climb up and make some reachy moves to a horizontal. Head up and right aiming for the right edge of the arete near the top. From the last bolt, figure out a good sequence to get up to the shuts and clip them (crux).

Location 

From the beach descent trail, head left (facing the lake) for about 70 yards. There will be 2 sport lines next to each other, this is the right line.

Protection 

6 bolts, shuts. If you traverse in from Tapeworm, #1-#3 camalots work well to protect the crack.


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