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Hillary Step? T,TR 
Left Crack T,TR 
Unnamed OW TR 

Hillary Step? 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 798
Submitted By: Burcheydawwwwwwg on Dec 29, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Hillary Step

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  • Description 

    Supposedly this "might be the best V0 highball in san diego...and that's sayin' somethin' "

    That being said, the lower 2/3 of it looks like a jam-party.

    This is the big flake on the NW side of the boulder.

    Protection 

    .75 to 4 inches, bolts on top for a TR if y'like.


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    Comments on Hillary Step? Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Lou Cerutti
    From: Carlsbad, California
    Jul 4, 2015

    Bolts up top are very rusted and One hanger is spinning pretty good. Backed them up with a #3 and top roped a few times. I'll have to lead it on the next visit. Definitely a jam party! Named Hillary Step in the 06' Hubbard guide and rated 5.9. Id love to throw down some hardware to replace the TR anchors up there if anyone is knowledgeable and motivated to do the work. Perhaps add some to the OW too if it would not be frowned upon.
    By Justin. S
    From: Big Bear City, CA
    Aug 2, 2015

    I think one of the nice parts of Woodson areas are the fact there is very little bolts around it. It's a prime area for people to learn basic trad leads and anchor building. Once you start adding bolts people put nonsense bolts up such as the one on Yoav crack. That's just my opinion, but reading some other Woodson posts it would seem it's shared by many other climbers in the area.
    By Burcheydawwwwwwg
    Aug 3, 2015

    Hey Justin,

    I tend to agree with you. The only boulders I'd consider a bolt on top a good idea, would be those without a decent way down. Yoav has a mellow climb down the back. Bolt not needed. I had to down-lead a handcrack to get off a boulder in the rain the other day - that one probably could use a bomber bolt for rapping, but I won't add one. Don't even own a drill. The best thing would probably be to just place one bolt off to the side, so using it for an anchor wouldn't work. Obviously each case is different, as are the ethics of each area.
    By Lou Cerutti
    From: Carlsbad, California
    Nov 4, 2015

    I understand the ethics at Woodson. Great route! Easily lead.
    By Adam Stackhouse
    Administrator
    Nov 4, 2015

    Nothing wrong with two TR bolts
    By Burcheydawwwwwwg
    Nov 4, 2015

    Nothing wrong with two TR bolt

    Haha, you mean in theory? Or there is nothing wrong with the two bolts currently on this route?

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