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YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
Page Views: 506
Submitted By: GummyBears on Mar 30, 2009

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Bottom section cruxy with lunge from bad left sidepull. Then awkwardness getting your feet up on the ledge. Get ready for the official crux which requires you reach high to stab a small pocket and try to clip a 3rd bolt with lack of any good feet (I skipped this bolt!) Then crank on to better holds and a 5.11 finish. Phew.


To the right of Walking the Plank.


5 bolts. Fixed bolts anchor.

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By HoseBeats
Mar 31, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

It sure felt hard to me. Very bouldery. The guidebook calls it a "Must Do." I disagree, I wouldn't have tried it again if I had fallen on my redpoint. Blah.
By Peter Franzen
General Admin
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 16, 2013

I also got on this because of the guidebook's recommendation. The bottom section was fun, but the crux section wasn't enjoyable. Meh.
By Big Ears
Jan 24, 2016

Very fun movement on what are most likely manufactured pockets through the crux. Worked the beta on TR, might come back for an RP. High right foot to with rt hand in shitty pocket, left knee scum, left hand gaston, bump left to a shit pocket, throw rt to a side pull jug. Felt like ..11d/.12a to the ledge, actually crux felt significantly harder than any .12b I've ever been on

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