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Highway to Hell 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: modern ascent: Kisiel, Beguin, and Newell, this might have been climbed by some unknown hippie climber from the 60's
Page Views: 1,038
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Feb 3, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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The Golden Boy riding the Highway to Hell.


This is a spooky and thought provoking crack-dihedral where pro is placed in the crack and most of the climbing is done on face edges. It is an exercise in keeping a cool head and treading lightly. It is a paved highway that if you continue down it you might end up in Hell where the rock is really big, scary , and loose. Entertaining never the less. Thanks to Post Moderate and other long stellar sport routes on this wall, Highway To Hell does not get much traffic, so watch out for loose rock. This is Diablo and The Winter Wall at that. Nuff' said.


This is the obvious dihedral to the right of Post Moderate.


Stoppers, Aliens, Camalots to #3, and trad runners. 2 bolt rap anchor. Get off with two 60 meter ropes [or 1 70m rope].

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By Scott Beguin
From: Santa Fe, NM
Feb 3, 2008

Marc Beverly's book states that this line was done in the 60's. Will the real first ascensionist step up, if you exist.
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 27, 2010

You can use a single 70m rope on this route with just a couple feet of rope to spare. Tie knots in the ends for sure. This works out nice if you'd prefer to lead Hellboy past the first anchors and use the anchors on this route. Of course, the best rock on Hellboy is the upper ~40 feet above these anchors but this option requires only one rope.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Jan 2, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This was the chossiest, sketchiest climb I've done at Diablo, and possibly all of New Mexico. I can't remember the last time I was this freaked out on 5.8. A number of the Hellboy bolts are within reach and could be clipped if you get too scared (and don't have a reputation to maintain). Don't even consider it, if other people are milling around at the base of Post Moderate or others nearby.

Can descend with a single 60m rope in 2 raps, using the Hellboy midway anchor.

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