|Type:||Trad, 11 pitches, 1600', Grade IV|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Ed Webster & Bryan Becker, 1979|
|Submitted By:||eDixon Dixon on May 17, 2011|
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|Comments on Highway 61 Revisited||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Andy F
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 19, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
|This route was awesome! Eric and I thought it deserved to be posted on Mnt project, so it might get more traffic.. the second pitch is kinda a pile, but if you have climbed Journey Home and/or Scenic Cruise, you will love this route. DO IT!!!|
By eDixon Dixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 6, 2011
|There is bird shit on P5, but it's not the hardest climbing and protects well. The crux is shit-free. Found the ear on P4 to be more strenuous, it's kinda wide. Linking this into Journey Home was a super Black day of 5.10.|
By Rob DeZonia
Sep 2, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
|Combine this with Journey Home and you get a route that only the Black can deliver. There is a serious amount of 5.10 climbing on the second ear. What a satisfying outing. The two routes combined created a 4 star outing for my brother and me. Pulling out of the second ear had one move that felt more like 5.11 to me. There was a big move from a jug undercling that is a little height dependent. There wasn't any slippery poop when we climbed it like 5 years ago. I would love to climb this again.|
By Jim Donini
May 26, 2012
This climb is classic. With a little more traffic and a teeny bit of bird shit removal from the second ear, it would get a four star rating.
Seven pitches of continuous 9+/10 climbing with the second ear coming in at 11-, a little more continuous than the Scenic Cruise but not quite as classic- but close!
Don't forget to move left before you get too high on the second ear - consider this 11- and you won't be surprised.
Don't let the appearance at the start put you off, it cleans up quickly. By the way, the topo is wrong - the start is in a left-facing, not a right-facing, corner.
Did not use a #5 Camalot until the 5.9 OW on the Journey Home, the First Ear protects with a #4. You don't need two green Aliens, any smaller stuff will do.
Jun 21, 2012
|Kick ass classic climb. Sustained 5.10 climbing. Hrdly noticable bird shit as of May 27, 2012. Obvious route finding. Standard rack plus (1) #4 and #5.|
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Sep 19, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
|The bird shit is about a 3 out 10 on the crap-o-meter on P5. Nothing to be concerned with. I thought this route was more sustained and physical than Scenic Cruise! The ear on P4 is slightly committing but easier than it looks. A #5 halfway out the ear will calm the nerves. P2 is probably closer to 5.8-9 and 215 ft long. I ended up doing some harder moves with 30 ft runouts to avoid the bad rock. We didn't place any RPs, but a couple small TCUs did get used.|
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Oct 19, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
I can't believe how many people have given this route 3 or even 4 stars? My partner and I just climbed this on 10/18/16, and there was so much bird shit on pitch 5 that I was literally knocking mounds of it off the hand and foot holds! Pitches 2 and 3 were also littered with feces making for some slippery climbing. My only assumption is that this route used to be much cleaner and a lot more birds have moved in in the last few years.
If anyone decides that wallowing through shit doesn't sound that bad, then my only recommendation would be to check out a variation to pitch 2 that we were scoping out from above at the pitch 3 belay. About 3/4 of the way up pitch 2, it appeared the you could angle up and left and then angle up and right to the pitch 3 belay ledge. We couldn't tell if there would be decent gear or not, but from our vantage, the climbing looked fairly reasonable (maybe 9/10-?), and it would avoid the not-so-great pitch 3 traverse.