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The Thumb Area
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Coyne Crack T 
Down Your Throat With A Hairy Goat! T 
Flake Variation T 
Higher Expectations T 
Indecent Exposure Variation T 
Lightly Seasoned T 
Monkey Lip T 
Nob Job T 
Robbins Crack T 
Robbins' Route T 
S-Crack T 
S-Direct T 
S-Direct, Variation T 
S-Matrix T 
Spring and Fall T 
Spring Fever T 
Standard Thumb, The T 
Summit Pitch, The T 
Thumbing To Bogota T 
Unsorted Routes:

Higher Expectations 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Tim Wolfe and Pete Carney, 1987
Season: when dry
Page Views: 672
Submitted By: Greg Gavin on Sep 30, 2009

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


when starting up the initial double cracks of indecent exposure branch off to the left and follow the weakness' up. This should lead you to a nice little belay ledge just left of the indecent gulley. belay here and either continue up and left reaching lunch ledge on the 2nd pitch or finish on the final pitch of indecent. either way its a nice variation that aviods the worst of the gulley thrash.


branch left out of the indecent exposure double cracks and stay on the face.


wireds and cams. I never came across the fixed pro but this route seems to wander so I might have gone a different way than the FA.

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By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Sep 30, 2009

For my second ascent of the thumb on sept 29th 2009 I chose this fun variation to stay out of the gulley. By the time we got to the summit the winds were howling at about 50+ mph!!! The next day I woke up to snow capped peaks, what timing!
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 28, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Obviously as the name implies we had higher expectations for this routes quality. The first pitch moves up and left linking various cracks together and belaying somewhere in the middle of the face or just right of the corner. The initial fixed piece is gone (old bashed in #7 stopper). The second pitch goes right up the middle of the slab, there is one second fixed piece still there - an old 1/4 inch bolt. Be careful above the bolt as its a bit run out (My wife and I rescued a guy who broke his leg and got a head injury on that section so kind of hairball). Perhaps with new microcams this route is safer. At the time - drilling was frowned upon so we linked whatever we could. The route gets you out of the bushes but its a bit more difficult, dangerous and time consuming.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Nov 3, 2010

I found that bolt Tim! Its a p.o.s. but thats what time will do to old steel. The variation I've been using is starting up indecent you branch left following the finger crack all the way up to a bush that I normally skirt to the left. Above the bush is easy ground 15ft left of the indecent tree gulley you overcome a slight bulge(5.5) and cruise up more easy terrain (35ft) to a belay directly below the handcrack of indecent. this way you avoid the entire gulley pitch as well as avoid Tim's run out of doom!
By Thaddeus VanDenBerghe
From: Salt Lake Sizzle, Utah
Apr 7, 2017

After moving up the finger crack and topping out to the left of the bush the terrain gets extremely loose. Be very very cautious. My partner accidentally dislodged a toaster size rock here last week that exploded less then 10 feet away from me as I belayed on the higher anchors in the gully. Shrapnel ricocheted down the gully and left me grateful that I wasn't on the lower anchors and that there were no parties below us. Scary.

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