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Higher Energy Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood Whine S 
Full Throttle S 
Mike's Short Route T 
Red Bull T,S 
Twisted Chopper T 

Higher Energy Crag Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,800'
Location: 39.9911, -105.4168 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,718
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 27, 2006


64° | 37°

63° | 40°

62° | 34°

45° | 31°

58° | 38°
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  • Open to climbing MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Eds. Per Boulder Parks and Open Space, this crag WAS closed indefinitely to the public for any purpose. Now, according to State Biologist who has confirmed this with a site visit, this crag is very close to a closed are but is OPEN TO CLIMBING!

    This is rock directly above High Energy Crag. Skirt High Energy Crag on the left and grunt up the steep hill to the crag.

    West-facing. Get great afternoon sun.


    A. Twisted Chopper, 9-, 1p, 50', gear.
    B. Red Bull, 11-, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.
    C. Blood Whine, 11, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.
    D. Mike's Short Route, 10-, 1p, 30', gear.
    E. Full Throttle, 11+, 1p, 40', gear & bolts.

    Eds. please note the management plan found at indicates no new bolting is allowed in this area.

    Getting There 

    The same as High Energy Crag. Skirt that crag on the left and then straight up the steep hill to the crag following the rock cairns to the crag.

    Climbing Season

    For the Boulder Canyon area.

    Weather station 4.4 miles from here

    5 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

    Featured Route For Higher Energy Crag
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bob D'Antonio beginning the crux of Full Throttle....

    Full Throttle 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : Higher Energy Crag
    A very powerful route on the far right side of the cliff. The crux is getting past the third bolt. Greg was totally throttle out on the sport drink (Full Throttle) on the redpoint. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

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    Comments on Higher Energy Crag Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    Apr 3, 2006
    For anyone interested in wide cracks, there is a first ascent waiting to be done up the obvious dihedral left of Full Throttle. Bring your big gear.
    By ben rosenberg
    Apr 5, 2006
    Per Greg's comment we did the offwidth today, thanks for posting it. It's listed under Mike's Short Route
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Apr 13, 2006
    An awful short cliff, but with great views from it.
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Apr 4, 2010
    I regret to have to pass on this information from the Boulder Parks and Open Space via the Boulder County Sheriffs, this crag is closed indefinitely to the public for any purpose. Fines start at $50. Sorry.

    Addendum: Tony, THANK YOU for updating this information below. The crag is open. Yeah!
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 29, 2011
    The crag is no longer closed. As of today:
    High Energy Crag and Higher Energy Crag are not located within a closed area. We have recently confirmed this definitively with a site visit, as the border of the closure is fairly close. But to reiterate, High Energy Crag and Higher Energy Crag are open for climbing.

    This information is open to all the public.

    Thanks for your patience,

    Susan Spaulding
    Senior Wildlife Biologist
    Boulder County Parks and Open Space

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