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High Times 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Ben Ditto with help from Ian Nielsen and Steele Taylor
New Route: Yes
Season: summer
Page Views: 1,084
Submitted By: ben ditto on Nov 16, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Ben Ditto climbs out the 4th pitch crux of High Ti...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

High Times starts on the far left side of Drug Dome and shares the first part of the route 'spinner'. it's 4 pitches long, easily climbed and rappelled with a 70m rope. sun in the morning, shade after 11 or so.
pitch 1: Begin up the right facing dihedral and go left at the roof, past 2 bolts. 5.11a.
pitch 2: climb the wandering splitter crack up to a piton, step left, and the climbing gets a bit trickier, past a few bolts, a hanging flake, and into the 'crackless' dihedral (techy stemming) and up to a nice ledge and anchor. 5.12b
pitch 3: head up and left from the anchor on a hanging arete past bolts, step back right and up a short steep crack and into a dihedral to a small ledge and anchor. 5.10
pitch 4: up the steep blocky (perhaps a bit loose) crack past a bolt, some fixed nuts and then into the business. boulder to get out of the crack and to the roof/bulges and the final boulder problem on edges and knobs. 5.13b

To rappel the route, you can top out, or not. If you top out the formation, belay on the big tree and then do a short rappel (there's a rap ring tied to a smaller tree) back to the anchor atop pitch 4. I configured it in such a way so that pitch 4 has its own anchor, enabling the leader to belay up the 2nd and then proceed to the summit, or just rap back down.

Location 

High Times is on the far left side of Dome.
It begins in a right facing dihedral and is a shared start with the route 'spinner'
rappel the route with a single 70m rope, or walk off

Protection 

bring 10 + quick draws and slings
1 set of cams from tiny to #3 camalot
all pitches have bolted anchors


Photos of High Times Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: High Times Topo
BETA PHOTO: High Times Topo

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By Bernd Zeugswetter
Jul 13, 2016
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Yeah Ben Ditto! Thanks for putting this up. Peter Chapman and I got to redpoint it on July 8th, our second time on the route. We both lead p4.
This will be solid 4 stars with a little bit more traffic cleaning it up. As it is, it's a really fun Tuolumne day already.
Gear: singles #0.1 (BD-X4) - #2, 10 draws.
With an 80m rope you can rap directly to the ground from p2. On pitches 1-3 we pulled up a small pack with water and puffies by simply dropping a loop from our 80m.
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Chapman, p2
Peter Chapman, p2
By Katiebird
Jul 18, 2016

Red-pointed the route the weekend of July 17th. Really fun line, pitches 1-3 are really excellent with pitch 2 maybe being one of the best of the grade in TM. Pitch 4 was savage, incredibly reachy boulder problem for me. I sent it with much surprise. Really great location, a must do for someone looking for something like this. Similar rack as Bernd - nuts, singles from 0 BD to #2, 10 draws.

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