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Alloy Madness S 
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High Seas 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brown and Guerrieri, 1996
Page Views: 788
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jul 7, 2011

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Description 

High Seas starts off of the upper ledge, right next to a lone tree. Moderate 5.10 moves lead to the steeper headwall. The second half of the route is charaterizated by high steps, thin holds, and difficult to read crux moves.

You can rap 100 feet to the 4th class ledge system.

Location 

This is the first route left of Alloy Madness.

Protection 

11 bolts.


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By Mark Rolofson
Jun 28, 2017
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

This climb & Alloy Madness are the two best climbs on Iron Sides. I managed the onsight on this climb & repeated it first try as well. That said, the upper half of the climb get progressively harder the higher you climb. I would rate it 5.11d/12a. The steep face is less than vertical (80-85 degrees), so fighting a forearm pump wasn't a big issue. Rather reading the moves & trusting your feet. I thought the redpoint crux was getting to the last bolt, involving an insecure high step smearing on sloping footholds. The bolting is well thought & well-protected on the hard climbing. The runouts on the lower face aren't hard.

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