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(3) Follies of the Youth Block
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High Sage S 
Youthful Indiscretion ( aka Wisdom of Age). S 

High Sage 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unkown
Page Views: 52
Submitted By: Topher Dabrowski on Oct 11, 2016

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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2016 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start up Youthful Indiscretion pulling a V1-ish move off the ground to much bigger holds. Traverse right across the slab face to the first bolt out right. Delightful holds takes one past more bolts to a set of top anchors.

Location 

Right side of the Follies of Youth Block

Protection 

4 bolts
2 bolt anchor


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By Erik Keever
Oct 12, 2016

Yet again, a V-grade / YDS-grade comparison does me a confuse.

According to most charts I've seen, V is ridiculously compressed on the low end and YDS is super expanded, such that a V1 move implies .10+/11a... But I've also heard that off-the-ground moves don't feel like grade-setters unless they're much harder (because you're 100% fresh)...

  • shrugs shoulders & walks away*
By another Chad
Oct 12, 2016

Erik, the clue for what's going on with the grade on High Sage is in the name. There used to be a robust sage that climbers could use to perch themselves on to reach decent holds. The sage is long gone and in its place is a strenuous move off the deck or a long traverse in from left.

Chad