Start below the obvious high roof. The reachy start, shared with the next climb to the right,
probably has the hardest moves on the route. Follow steep finger cracks with good ledges every 10'. Before you reach the roof, step left, and follow finger and hand cracks to the top.
This is my favorite of the 5.9/5.10s at this cliff, with high-quality, interesting, and well-protected climbing the whole way.
When approaching the cliff base as described in the intro to ONP, walk along the base of the cliff for about 50 feet. Look for an obvious roof. The direct start to the route starts directly below the roof. The route is listed as route number 5 on the Old New Place route topo photo.
The line shown in Jemez Rock incorrectly marked to the right of where you want to be, at the beginning.
Cams & nuts to 3".
BETA PHOTO: This is high roof left. You start slightly to the ...