REI Community
Corral Wall - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fistfull of Poodles T 
Chuck Wagon Crack T 
City Slickers TR 
Corral Crack T 
Herd Instinct T 
High Plains Drifter T 
Honky Justice T 
Only Outlaws Have Guns T 
Party in the Desert T 
Party in the West T 
Party till Ya' Puke T 
Ranch Hand T 
Report all Gunshot Wounds T 
Six-Gun by My Side T 
Way Out West TR 
Wide Ride T 
Wild Wild West S 

High Plains Drifter 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ripley Casdorph, Louie Anderson and Geoff Archer, 1990
Page Views: 1,029
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Dec 26, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Go up left crack until it ends, then move right.


It's "ugly" as Bartlett states in his guide; and it certainly is. It's also awkward and quite strenuous. I put off climbing it for a number of years until I no longer had and excuse other than I'm not a masochist. Do it on an empty stomach.


Gear to 3", 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos of High Plains Drifter Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: High Plains Drifter (5.9), Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: High Plains Drifter (5.9), Joshua Tree NP
Rock Climbing Photo: Monkey o' Steel gettin' some High Plains Drifter o...
Monkey o' Steel gettin' some High Plains Drifter o...

Comments on High Plains Drifter Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 16, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Protects OK if you ignore the rack beta in Vogel's book. Take a few pieces bigger than 2" and place solid pro before the 'barf move.'
By C Miller
From: CA
Feb 2, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Awkward, but solid jamming skills take the bite out of it. Short and somewhat forgettable at half a star out five.
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 18, 2009

The Bartlett guide clearly locates this route as right of the "ugly chimney." Thin hand jams through the crux bulge low on the route lead to easier climbing up the discontinuous crack above.
By Avi Katz
Jan 9, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

great fist jam at the bottom. easily protected crux with a 4 or 4.5

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About