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Crystal Corridor
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Bones T 
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High On Dilithium 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Tony Sartin May 1st, 2017
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 106
Submitted By: Tony Sartin on May 2, 2017

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Description 

This rig is pretty wild, featuring a mega steep section of rock. Climb up a large 5.8 dihedral with easy stemming for five bolts, passing a large block wedged in the corner. The sixth, seventh, and eighth bolts have fixed draws and climb through extremely steep rock to a crux move above the eighth bolt. The last three bolts climb through slightly overhanging 5.11 territory to a triple bolt, triple steel biner lower off.

Note: The one ton block wedged half way up the dihedral was found to be solid. However, its' precarious appearance gave much pause. After a hardy struggle trying to remove it with a large crowbar to no avail, I decided to secure it with two large bolts and a short piece of high test chain.

Location 

Approach by scrambling 4th class up the large boulder wedged in the notch between Rob's Rock and Dilithium Crystal. You can also tunnel under and through from the high left end of the boulder. HOD begins twenty feet left of Spock in a large, right facing dihedral. Rope up on top of the large approach boulder at the far left side of the Crystal Corridor's East wall exactly where the approach trail tops out. Just left of HOD you can see the top half of Twister. You can lower off HOD with a 60m rope.

Protection 

The route has eleven bolts, three of which are fixed draws. You need eight quickdraws to get to the anchor. The anchor consists of three fixed steel biners.


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