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High on Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tony Calderone, Kathy Lagerquist, 1992
Page Views: 641
Submitted By: Tryhard Scoville on Jun 10, 2012

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This is a variation of Jam Crack Route. 70M rope is recommended for descent.

Pitch 1 (5.6): Climb first pitch of Jam Crack. With a longer rope you can skip the first set of anchor bolts you see and climb another 25 feet or so to a bushy alcove with a chain anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.5): Continue straight up following the Jam Crack weakness. Crack will quickly start to deepen into a shallow dihedral and climbing quality will degrade somewhat. Climb until you are even with the big bushy ledge (Top of Jam Crack 2nd Pitch). You have 2 options - build a belay in deep crack system, or traverse left and belay from the chains at top of Jam Crack 2nd pitch (we chose the 2nd option).

Pitch 3 (5.8+): If belaying from chain anchor, head up and right and traverse back into large crack/dihedral. Stay within dihedral, but right of crack for good rock and good pro. Pull over bulge and continue to large roof that curves to right in large arc. Ruckman guide shows a rightward traverse under this roof followed by a straight shot to the top, but I couldn't resist the opportunity to pull the roof (good gear, 5.8ish). Belay from gear or horn at the top of route.

Descent: Rappel DDD route (5 raps, 70M rope). Alternatively, descend old school walk off.


See Jam Crack description.

Descent: Rappel DDD route (5 raps, 70M rope). Alternatively, descend old school walk off.


Standard rack. Micro cams through #2 Camalot. Larger gear is not needed. Optional doubles: .75, #1 Camalot.

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By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
May 30, 2016

This route is unfortunately home to several briar patches now. The arete/face to the left goes at about 5.6R.

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