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2. Baldy
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ballroom T,TR 
Chute TR 
Devil's Elbow TR 
Gunsight TR 
High Nowhere TR 
High Rustler TR 
Jitterbug TR 
Mambo T,TR 

High Nowhere 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: TR Ken Roberts 2015
Page Views: 38
Submitted By: kenr on Jan 1, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Baldy sector + Albion pillar: A - High Rustler B -...

Description 

Thoughtful face moves -- one especially tricky -- but the rest are sufficiently interesting.

Up the slab (without using the positive left-facing hold about 15 inches right from the crack in the right-facing corner). Up the steeper face to the top.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location 

On an 18-inch-high rock leaning against the bottom of the main slab face about 6 feet right of obvious right-facing corner with crack in it, alongside the shield flakes of the Ballroom route.

Protection 

Top-Rope: Trees above are available for top anchor, but need to re-direct the rope.

Protection for trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.


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