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Eleven O'clock Gully 
High Noon T 
Nine O'clock Gully 
Northwest Ridge T 
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High Noon 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c AI3

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine, 700', Grade III
Original:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c AI3 Steep Snow [details]
FA: 
Season: Fall-Spring
Page Views: 426
Submitted By: Sam Bedell on Nov 26, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: High Noon (red) and the Eleven O'clock Gully (yell...

Description 

The most direct established route to the summit from the Crook Cirque crater. This route climbs steep (40-50 degree) snow for several hundred feet before tackling a some steep rime ice and/or mixed ground to the summit.

This route is south facing in a south facing bowl and as such gets a lot of sun. It is prone to avalanches and may have nasty breakable crust on unconsolidated waist deep powder even once the slope steepens to 50 degrees. Know the conditions, get in position early and climb it fast.

Location 

Straight up the south face, starting on the steep snow field that splits the face.

Protection 

pickets and maybe some passive pro, but this rock is not what you would call solid, even by Oregon standards


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