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High Noon and Hour Passed T 

High Noon and Hour Passed 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: unknown FA. RP: October, 2014
Season: Spring, Fall, Summer
Page Views: 396
Submitted By: Abel Jones on Sep 7, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: This shows the meat of the climbing and the two va...

Description 

This begins from the nice rock perch below the tombstone formation on the left side of The Sentinel.

Pitch 1. 5.9R, 20 feet. Do a boulder problem with micro-gear to gain the nice belay ledge below the obvious corner with splitter crack running parallel to it. This pitch could land you in the hurt, but some creative small gear might hold you off the ledge and a piece of medium-sized gear for the belayer will keep both of you from tumbling off the perch.

Pitch 2. 5.11-, 80 feet. Climb the beautiful corner crack occasionally using the splitter out to your left. Turn the chossy looking roof with some large gear, then tackle a thin, 10+ section of stemming. Head toward an obvious white spot for the belay if continuing up the more direct left variation route. Climb straight up, and use a directional to move right on a ledge to belay for the glorious splitter way up and right variation.

Left variation:

Pitch 3. 5.10+, 50 feet. Head straight up and left from the white stain into a very nice, thin splitter that goes from fingers to hands. Turn this onto a very nice belay ledge.

Pitch 4. 5.10-, 50 feet. Head off the ledge up an overhanging, flared, chimney hand/fist crack that is actually much cleaner climbing than it looks. Top out the tombstone.

Right variation:

Pitch 3. 5.11-, 100 feet. From the belay ledge up and right of pitch 2..., surf straight right on an amazing flake, then bust up a technical, thin seam to the base of the glorious splitter through the roof. Climb amazing thin hands through the roof and up a widening hands/fists crack to topout of the tombstone formation.

Descent:

Two raps from healthy pines with rappel slings take you down the gully to the north of the formation. A 60m rope is sufficient.

Location 

On the obvious Tombstone Formation on the left side of the Sentinel Rock, look for the splitters. It gets afternoon shade.

Protection 

Micro to medium nuts, double cams on up to be #3, one BD #4, and many slings.


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By Abel Jones
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 7, 2015

My wife and I climbed this in Oct. of 2014 and only decided to post this after climbing the Directissima on The Specimen yesterday 9/6/2015. After climbing that supposed classic (which I agree it is in a rough and adventurous way), I realized that this tombstone chunk holds a more quality, clean, and enjoyable experience in my opinion and should therefore be shared with Colorado Springs area climbers. Everything was climbed ground up onsight with the exception of the steep corner with splitter part at the bottom of pitch 2. This pitch required cleaning and a second try. All gear was placed on lead. The only evidence of previous climbers was a sling and piton that were sitting loose below the midway roof of pitch 2. I am assuming these have been ascended in the past due to the shear, obvious splitter quality that can easily be seen from the ground. Any information would be happily added about these climbs. Enjoy!

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