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High Neb Buttress
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High Neb Buttress 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ivar Berg 1914
Page Views: 44
Submitted By: rdlennon on Nov 10, 2008

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High Neb Buttress

Description 

One of the best routes on gritstone and a perennial favorite, High Neb Buttress is a classic test of balance and technique. It follows the face of the eponymous buttress, and from below looks like almost every other slabby Stanage face climb. Once on it, however, it is immediately apparent that this route is special.

There are several starts to the route: Tackle the tough finger crack at the base of the buttress, climb the blocks spilling out of the gully to gain the left arete of the buttress, or follow a jug rail out of the cave to reach the center of the face. Option #3 is highly recommended.

Climb to a small ledge in the center of the face. Using small edges and high steps, gain a large horizontal that takes good gear. A few more balancy moves lead to the crux: a 5 foot blank section between two good horizontals. Think about the move (heady on lead, easily done statically) and execute it with surprising ease. Continue on slopey horizontals to the top and a belay.

5.8 doesn't really describe the climb. VS 4c does.

Location 

The center of the most prominent face at High Neb. 75 feet to the right of Quietus.

Protection 

Small to medium cams for the horizontals. Several good nut placements are available as well. All the hard moves are well protected and good stances are plentiful.


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