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High Mountain Woody 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Glenn Payan, May 1996
Page Views: 3,985
Submitted By: ihategrigris on Mar 21, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: High Mountain Woody Topo

Access issues at the Lower Malamute. MORE INFO >>>


This classic crack offers some excellent crack climbing with some of the most amazing views in Squamish. The 5.8/5.9 crux is right at the bottom, it's all smooth sailing from there.


Hike to the top of the Mallamut formation straight across the road from the Chief campground. Find a series of belay anchros at the top of the cliff. Rappel (Double rope!) to a large ledge at the base of the climb.


Cams: doubles to 2", nuts.

Photos of High Mountain Woody Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bad ass senior citizen soloist.
Bad ass senior citizen soloist.
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome 5.9 crack climbing on High Mountain Woody.
BETA PHOTO: Awesome 5.9 crack climbing on High Mountain Woody.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stupid fun
Stupid fun
Rock Climbing Photo: Last jug of an awesome climb.  Great setting!
Last jug of an awesome climb. Great setting!
Rock Climbing Photo: jade littlewood cruising up the line
jade littlewood cruising up the line
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking south from the belay on Paul's Crack, clim...
Looking south from the belay on Paul's Crack, clim...

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By ScottH
Sep 6, 2007

This is a nice climb and refreshingly long. It's about 45m, but seems like it keeps going and going. I don't think gear larger than a #2 Camalot is really necessary. There are possibilities for larger placements, but there is typically something smaller nearby.

It's possible to access the base of the climb with a single rope by hiking (or rapping, but why bother) to the base of Paul's Crack (described for that route), then making a short rappel to the base of HWM.
By Alpine Carl
Mar 10, 2008

If you get the chance, rap back down and hit up Slap and Tickle just to the right - its good, but save some small TCU's to protect a high crux traverse.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Squampton classic. Just perfect for the grade, really. Beautiful view, exposure, great protection and nice length. No complaints.

I didn't have a 4" cam or doubles of my nuts but I found the protection very straight-forward and forgiving.
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Mar 11, 2013

Fun, straightforward route. Lot's of rests and nice and long so, it is great for those just starting to plug gear.

Beautiful setting.
By Al Pogue
From: Squamish, British Columbia
Oct 6, 2014

The gift that keeps on giving. Great, great route.
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Jul 19, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A low crux leads to crack swimming. Seriously, after the first 20 feet it's just fun climbing for what seems like forever. And then it's over, and you'll want to get right back on it. A single set of cams is plenty unless you really want to sew up the easy stuff.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Sep 23, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

FA: Glenn Payan, May 1996- can you believe these great cracks where not climbed before?
By Ryan Lynne
May 22, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Awesome climb, starts out at 5.9 and just gets easier as you go higher. Note that you can make it even longer by instead starting out on Stephanie's Tears on the next terrace down. Also, it is possible to get to the base without rapping down at all. I would recommend a double rack for newer leaders but a single rack is more than adequate for an experienced leader. If in doubt bring more than you need as it is a 50 meter pitch!

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