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High Hopes 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Andy Knight, Darren Knezek
Page Views: 1,912
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on May 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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Climbing High Hopes


A juggy climb up an arete that looks harder than it is. The hardest part is getting above the first bolt, but it isn't difficult once you discover one of what Alanis Morrisette put her hand in.

The first part is vertical, followed by a ledge/set back, then a bit that is almost vertical past the last bolt, then low-angled to the anchors.


Located on the arete just right of the wide chimney found on the right side of the central area of PA's Mother that has the large roof. Or alternatively, the arete to the left of Regular Route.


5 bolts to anchors. This can be easily toproped after leading.

Photos of High Hopes Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 7 High Hopes 5.7
BETA PHOTO: 7 High Hopes 5.7

Comments on High Hopes Add Comment
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By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Mar 26, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Good climb for beginners. Like the description says, it's not as hard as it looks. The anchors are a bit far back from the top, which makes toproping a little difficult.
By Darren Knezek
May 22, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Andy and I put this up together and called it, High Hopes.
By Klimbien
From: St.George Orem Denver Vegas
May 19, 2009

Good route, great for the leader who is just getting into the head games maybe. The route climbs very easy, huge holds all the way to the top with no real crux. The route definitely looks harder than it really is. The Anchors were placed well so that they can double for the anchors on top of E.B. Jeebies.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 13, 2009

Fun climbing. While the holds are really good, don't blow the second clip.
By Jon Bitter
From: Waco, Tx
Sep 7, 2009

I thought that the only fun climbing here was up till the second bolt. After that it was more of a scramble than a climb.
By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Apr 16, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I thought this climb was a blast. Great jug haul up huge, solid holds. Wish it were a little longer.
By Michael Davidson
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 13, 2011

Just an FYI, the second bolt is gone. I'm not sure when this happened.
From: Texas
Mar 6, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I loved how this climb looks like it could be a little hard because the start is kind of steep, but after you feel around for it, there are more good, deep holds than you could know what to do with.
After the second bolt though it does sort of turn into a scramble.
@ Michael's post: Also, I found the second bolt exactly where it is in the topo, so maybe someone replaced it.
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Sep 5, 2013

The first two bolts were missing but have been replaced in the original bolt holes. The route has its own anchors now. Thanks for providing the hardware DK!
By Steven Jones
May 10, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The first two bolts are fun, slightly overhung, juggy climbing. Easy enough. After that if you stay left of the bolts it really does feel like more of a scramble than anything, but if you stay right on the face of the arete it earns the 5.7 grade.

John Ross is a saint for giving this route its own chains. They're directly above the last bolt in the beta picture (as opposed to using the ones next door on E.B. Jeebies about 6 feet back over the edge) and make toproping this climb a breeze.

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