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High H20 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ric and Cindy Geiman, October 2004
Page Views: 2,749
Submitted By: Cory P on Sep 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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BETA PHOTO: The wicked crux start to High H20.

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  • Description 

    This has a very difficult start for this grade, and it continues with moderate climbing up to the anchor. It has good and enjoyable rock; however, some key holds have broken off, bringing the rating up from a 5.10a to the 5.10b/c range. Nonetheless, it is a good, albeit rather difficult for the grade, climb.

    Location 

    This is the last route on Ripple Wall before the wall "Bends;" three routes are past it. Look for chalk on what appears to be an interesting start.

    Protection 

    6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

    Caution 

    As of 10/09: per PRRose both of the anchor bolts could be wiggled in their holes.


    Photos of High H20 Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: High H2O.
    BETA PHOTO: High H2O.

    Comments on High H20 Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 8, 2015
    By Jim Gloeckler
    From: Denver, Colo.
    Nov 7, 2006

    The start on this looks and seems to be in the 5.11 range? After getting to the 2nd bolt, it eases to about 5.8+. I looked for broken holds at the start but did not notice any areas that look like that was the case. We just stick-clipped the first bolt and managed OK.
    By Nathan Hoobler
    Mar 4, 2007

    Agreed on the tough start. Like Jim, I was wondering if a hold or two had broken off. In a couple areas, the rock looked a different color as though a piece might be missing. It definitely feels harder than 5.10a up to the 2nd bolt. Fun after that. Took a pretty good lead fall about 1/2 way up. Also, it's mentioned elsewhere that the left anchor bolt is quite loose.
    By Doug Lintz
    From: Kearney, NE
    Jul 31, 2007

    I traversed in from an obvious rail about 6 feet left of the large block laying at the base of the route. Although easier than a direct start these moves were mid 5.10 IMO. A scary first clip and the second wasn't very secure either, much easier after that. The first bolt spins and both anchors are pretty loose also, be careful.
    By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
    Jun 18, 2008

    Pretty cool sequence of thin moves past the first couple bolts. It helps to be tall. After doing about a half dozen pitches at Red Rocks park last week, this felt far harder than the other 5.10s we did. Perhaps more like 5.11a.
    By kevin fox
    From: parker
    Sep 13, 2008

    I agree with Steve, this has an .11a start. I didn't stick clip the first bolt that spins and popped off the first moves numerous times. I think that Stewart's guidebook says, "must do" which really means "sandbagged".
    By Joey Jimenez
    From: Colorado Springs
    Jan 23, 2009

    The start to this line is indeed tricky, definitely the crux of the entire route. The first two clips are very balancy, but after those the route mellows out. No comment on the grade, although I will say H20 is a fun route route that you'll be glad you did no matter how many times you slip off the start. Landing is flat, and there's nothing to worry about should you not have a stick clip. Quick update, on the hardware side...almost every bolt is loose, including both anchors. Definitely needs a wrench soon so toss one in your bag if you're heading out and be sure to use a sling/draws if you're setting up a TR.
    By Curt True
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Jun 19, 2009
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X

    The anchor bolts are very shady. Be careful
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Jul 29, 2009

    I'm embarrassed to say I've tried this a few times and cannot do the start clean. The start is very difficult.
    By Stewart M. Green
    Oct 24, 2009

    I'll try to get out in the next week or two and pull those bolts and replace them with big glue-in bolts. Eventually all the anchors on the east side of the canyon will have to be replaced with glue-ins. Part of the problem is that there are some folks that insist on top-roping the routes with their rope through the anchors rather than through quickdraws. The action of the rope and the weight load weakens the placement over time, loosening the bolts.
    By Ryan Sanders
    From: C Springs
    May 9, 2011

    Both anchor bolts are scary loose in their holes, and the start has gotten even harder from a year ago.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jun 11, 2011

    The starting holds have changed with time. It is significantly harder than it used to be a few years ago, likely to holds getting more rounded, that undercling chipping. It felt harder than 5.11 yesterday.
    By karl Maes
    From: Laramie, Wyoming
    Jul 6, 2012

    11a or b not toooo hard but fun for sure, also it is well bolted.
    By Patrick Manitou
    From: Atlanta, GAAAAA
    Aug 12, 2012

    Nailed the start today after a few tries. That felt great, because that start is ridiculous! I'd call it V4/V5 without hesitation, which would put this thing in the 5.12 range. Significantly eases up after bolt two.
    By BlazeBo bowen
    Jul 9, 2013

    As of 7/9/13, both anchors are still suspect. The left you can almost pull out, the right wiggles in its hole just not as much. Be careful, folks!
    By GLD
    Apr 25, 2014
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

    Not doing much slab climbing, I found this hard. Getting to the first bolt took a while, I had to aid to the second bolt and to move past it. Hence my 5.11-.
    By S.Stelli
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Apr 8, 2015

    If Baja Ha Ha is an .11a/b consensus-wise, then I'd rate the first two bolts worth of moves on High H20 significantly harder than Baja, probably two full letter grades harder. The rest of the route after that is super cruiser and fun, albeit standard RRCOS dirty.

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