REI Community
Salt Lake Slips
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abracadabra T 
Chalking Dead T,TR 
Double Tap S 
Entre Nous S 
Forgotten Ambition T 
Goth Girls S 
High Fructose Corn Syrup S 
Italian Arete S 
Maudlin S 
Nosferatu S 
Roll the Bones S 
Salem's Lot S,TR 
Senseless Banter T 
Thieving Magpie S 
Use-to-be-bushy T 
Witchhunt S 
Zombieland T 

High Fructose Corn Syrup 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: James Garrett and Nate Bryan, 23 September 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, and Fall
Page Views: 5,579
Submitted By: James Garrett on Sep 24, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (135)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Picture of The Salt Slips. High Fructose for refe...

Description 

Good for a quick fix! Fun climbing.

Pitch #1: Climb thin edges and layback a flake-like feature up to the first, of three, roofs. High quality and compact rock with swirling and syrupy features finishes with a spectacular finale on unique rock. 5.8, 35m.

Location 

Located 8m to the left of Maudlin (4m to the left of Forgotten Ambition) and about 10m to the right of Senseless Banter.

Rappel the route with a 70m rope, two ropes, or walk off.

Protection 

QDs for 12 bolts. Some climbers may elect to carry a small assortment of Camalots and Nuts.

The anchor consists of two Fixe steel lower-off carabiners.

Again, using a rope shorter than 70m and lowering can potentially be dangerous. Tie knots into the ends of your ropes no matter what rope length you use and be careful.


Photos of High Fructose Corn Syrup Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the top
At the top
Rock Climbing Photo: (No, the bolt line does not zigzag that much - I p...
(No, the bolt line does not zigzag that much - I p...
Rock Climbing Photo: A Swiss girl laps up some High Fructose Corn Syrup
A Swiss girl laps up some High Fructose Corn Syrup

Comments on High Fructose Corn Syrup Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 18, 2017
By zoso
Sep 30, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good route and quite clean. If you don't think the remnants of moss will clean up, just look @ the slab to the right. It was all covered in moss one day.
By Josh Triplett
From: Bountiful, UT
Jun 12, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Just did the onsight today. Fun climb, nice and long. Good pockets and fun roof pulls with plenty to hold onto. I used 2x60 to get down and then TR for my partner. Worked out great. Thanks for the climb, and by the way it has cleaned up pretty nicely, just stay a little right until you pass the second clip.
By Ken Noyce
From: Layton, UT
May 4, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is doable with a single 60 meter rope with some shenanegins. Just watch the rope ends and be ready to down climb the last five feet of easy fifth class terrain.
By Jordy Hanson
May 11, 2013

Nice climb! I felt like the moves were a lot of fun! The 60m was not enough, I walked off.
By Daniel Rushton
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 14, 2016
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Definitely need the 70M here. Well protected, used one sling on about the 4th or 5th bolt. Super fun!
By John Brown
Jul 19, 2017

someone claims to do it with a 60' rope is a DF. Not even close. DO NOT LISTEN TO HIM and bring at MINIMUM 70. Someone will end up hurt so take my advice.
By Francis Sanzaro
Sep 14, 2017

Hey everyone,

The anchors for this climb are described as: "The anchor consists of two Fixe steel lower-off carabiners."

Is this still accurate? There was a deadly accident recently on this climb, and it appears the climber was untying for some reason, which would be odd for lower-off biners. Writing an accident report on this. Any info helps.

thx
Francis
Rock and Ice magazine
By JimG
Sep 14, 2017

Francis, I climbed this a couple of weeks ago (Sept. 2017) and there were two Fixe steel lowering carabiners on chains as an anchor. The anchor looked in good condition. No need to untie and thread the anchor, but maybe someone inexperienced didn't realize you could just clip in. Seems unlikely, but stuff happens.
By Francis Sanzaro
Sep 15, 2017

Thanks Jim. I really appreciate the beta.
By James Garrett
Sep 18, 2017

Yes, the convenient steel lower off carabiners do NOT negate the need that one should still use one's own locking carabiners when repeatedly lowering and TRing the route. The Steel ones there are already second generation despite the relative young age of the route. The anchor consists of two glue in bolts securing the steel Biners, but I anticipate replacing the steel lower off carabiners once again before winter to insure ongoing safety concerns. The sad accident that occurred earlier in the summer had nothing to do with the fixed equipment on HFCS. Tragically, it was user error. This route REQUIRES a 70m rope or two ropes.
By Francis Sanzaro
Sep 18, 2017

Hi James,

Thanks for clarifying. Agreed for sure, the tragic accident was due to user error. From all witnesses there was no gear or anchor failure at all, despite early reporting by some SLC papers.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About