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High Exposure 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 281
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Jun 6, 2014

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Description 

This route is listed in both Green's Falcon guidebook as well as Baum's GJ Rock book. But it must not get climbed very frequently, because the first half of the first pitch was a muddy, vegetated nightmare. A few chalk marks, and a single-nut bail station, told us we were on route though.
P1 starts out thin hands/hands in the left leaning crack, then feeds you in to a nearly-OW gap in the right-facing corner above (5.8+). Stop at about 35 m on a big triangular ledge, with a dihedral above.
P2 climbs the 5.7 dihedral which leads to easier rock to the summit (~35 m).

Location 

The route starts from the Sundeck Ledge, about 25 feet climber's left of the rap bolts (just a hair left of SSS). Follow the prominent left-leaning (vegetated) crack that leads to a clean OW and then aim for the tree on the skyline.
From the top, scramble climber's right to the rap station, drop down to the Sundeck Ledge, then take the second rap to the ground (two ropes required).

Protection 

1-1/2 rack of cams, including at least one #4 Camalot (old size is better). Single set of nuts.


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