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High Expectations 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Graham & Oswick
Season: summer
Page Views: 1,221
Submitted By: david goldstein on Jul 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Looking up High Expectations from the base. Pretty...

Description 

Increasingly difficult thin changing corners climbing which I found more challenging than anything else I did at PB including several pitches which were rated harder.

Start with a couple of hard moves off the deck, then some easier terrain then an interesting move using a flake to get to a horn that alone would justify the 10d rating. The next 15' involve decreasingly bomber fingerlocks and toecams in the corner and good small nuts if you can hang around to place them. Anchors shortly follow.

Location 

A little uphill of Boi-oi-oing in a small right facing corner.

Protection 

RPs to red or gold Camalot with emphasis on the thinner stuff.


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By outdooreric
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 12, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I also thought this was a bit hard for the grade. It gets pretty thin toward the top. There are anchors for a second pitch, but I don't know if it has been led yet; it seems like a third pitch would be possible as well, ending at the Boi-oi-oing P2 anchors.

This climb is located downhill from Boi-oi-oing.
By fubar
From: Babylon
Jan 6, 2013

I top-roped the link-up from the top of the second pitch to the top of the pillar. There is an odd stray bolt about twenty feet down and around the anchors of Boioioing -- maybe it was going to be another anchor? I would like to know if this is someone's project because it will be really good once it's cleaned up, but it needs some cleaning. It's probably 12a.
By outdooreric
From: Bishop, CA
Jan 18, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

fubar, the stray bolt I believe to be a second-pitch continuation of the route and is an abandoned project. The route name stems from this "expectation" of a second pitch and was never completed. A worthy project with a bit of scrubbing.
By fubar
From: Babylon
Jun 4, 2013

The question is, where should it go? I busted some wild moves out around the arete on TR to gain the offwidth right of Boioioing, but they'd need a bolt or two to protect. The logical line follows the cracks, but there is a ton of loose crap stuffed in there--would take a crowbar and a hammer to clean. Was that the original condition of Boi-oi-oing, or was it pretty clean already? I'm willing to go either way, but don't know if the bolted line would be frowned upon when there's such a clear crack system.
By ACassebeer
From: Mojave, CA
Sep 9, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I thought this route was pretty high quality, similar to some of the rock found at the Needles. The gear is very good, there are rests, and I thought the move to the anchor was probably the crux.
By Todd Graham
From: Sierra Eastside, CA
Jan 4, 2016

I named this route "High Expectations" because I had high hopes for the corner above this first pitch. The book above turned out to be choss -- bummer. Maybe it can be cleaned up.

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