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Elevation: 7,600 ft
GPS: 39.9915, -105.4174
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 6,872 total · 26/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 22, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Blob, Security Risk DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Open to climbing DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Eds. Note, according to State Biologist who has confirmed this with a site visit, this crag is very close to a closed are but is OPEN TO CLIMBING!

In the late '70s and early '80s, High Energy Crag saw a lot of action for its clean cracks on bullet-proof Boulder Granite. While the crag is small and never gets great sun, it can offer several moderate trad lines with a minimal approach and real respite from the sweltering heat. Most of the routes take off from above the slab and in the right facing dihedral. "Proton" at 5.9 and "Diet of Worms" at 5.10a are certainly fine lines that take excellent pro and offer up some of the sweetest jams in Boulder Canyon. HEC also hosts a couple of 5.11s that are well worth jumping on, and everything here can be done with a small rack of cams or a fist full of stoppers - just bring the whole range. The dihedral can be approached in many ways, so pick the most comfortable one. A couple of big Friends can be placed at the base for a belay and belays at the top are plentiful too - or head for the tree. HEC used to be a Boulder Canyon gem, and it still is.

L->R:

A. Eugenics Wars?, 12 , 1p, 40', gear.

B. No Preservatives? 10, 1p, 40', gear.

C. Star Span, 11, 1p, 40', gear.

D. Golden Bull?, 10, 1p, 40', gear.

E. Proton?, 9 - hmmm, 1p, 40', gear.

F. Neutron Star, 10- R, 1p, 40', gear.

G. Diet Of Worms, 10a-, 1p, 40', gear.

H. Imp-Passible Crack, 11-, 1p, 40', gear.

I. Next to Imp-Passible, 9-, 1p, 40', gear.

Eds. please note the management plan found at bouldercounty.org/openspace… indicates no new bolting is allowed in this area.

Getting There Suggest change

Drive 9.1 miles up the canyon. Park as for Easter Rock but cross the stream at the obvious crag with a large right facing dihedral.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at High Energy Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Imp-Passible Crack
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Imp-Passible Crack
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
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