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High Eagle

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Aerie Dome 
Baby Blues Wall 
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Main Wall - Lower Left 
Shape Shifter Area 
Talon 

High Eagle Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,000'
Location: 37.3736, -119.428 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,941
Administrators: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Aug 26, 2013
Forecast:
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Description 

High Eagle is one of the premier crags located near Friend Rock Camp. Most climbs are sport routes in the 5.10 - 5.12 range with a few mixed routes thrown in. Routes here tend to be quite long and require use of midway anchors to descend.

This whole area gets morning sun and the right side (Shape-Shifter, etc) gets shade earlier in the day.

Getting There 

The hike is mostly down hill takes about 15 minutes. Park at the pull-out for Friend Rock Camp just below the gate which leads to the shuteye ridge lookout. This is on road 6S059. 4WD is required to get here, see map for details. Otherwise park at the 2WD pullout and hike an extra 10 minutes up the road to Friend Rock Camp.

From the camp locate the talon and look for a tree with a gap sawed in it that marks the start of the trail. There are also cairns here. Follow the obvious trail towards the very large dome on your right. Once you reach rock gulley head up hill, staying close to the wall and contour around the base. You will hit the Shape-shifter area first. Continue along the base until you must make a step around move to access the Main Wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.4 miles from here

29 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',16],['5.11',5],['5.12',6],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in High Eagle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for High Eagle:
Eine Kleine Nachtmusik   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 70'   Main Wall
Not Afraid   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 75'   Main Wall
Eagle Ease   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 40'   Talon
Carnivore   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Talon
Out of the Nest   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 40'   Talon
Sweaty Betty   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Main Wall - Lower Left
We Free Again Boys   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 200'   Dark Side
Welcome to the Dark Side   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 180'   Dark Side
Raptor   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Talon
Little Kala   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Main Wall - Lower Left
Elixir   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   Main Wall
Darth Vader   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Dark Side
Va Va Voom   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   Main Wall
Gravity Pool   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   Shape Shifter Area
Illuminati   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 230'   Main Wall
Bio Luminescent   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   Main Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in High Eagle

Featured Route For High Eagle
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben having fun on Darth Vader. Photo by Casey Zak

Darth Vader 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  California : Southern Sierra : ... : Dark Side
Poor holds right off the ground lead to steep moves on good holds past the first bolt. (Stick clip useful). Romp up to the 3rd bolt and get a good rest. The fixed nut is pretty good and can be backed up with a .5 camalot or 1-1.5" piece. Fight up the overhanging layback to a stance and a bolt. Work left on good holds to a nice rest. Quest up the face past a mix of bolts and gear until you make it to a roof way up high. Pull another solid 5.11/11+ crux past closely spaced bolts. Some more easy cl...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of High Eagle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tip of the Talon at sunrise
Tip of the Talon at sunrise
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Arechhiga on, Short And Swanky. 5.10b, High E...
Mike Arechhiga on, Short And Swanky. 5.10b, High E...
Rock Climbing Photo: Base of Main Wall High Eagle Dome
BETA PHOTO: Base of Main Wall High Eagle Dome
Rock Climbing Photo: High Eagle Overview
BETA PHOTO: High Eagle Overview

Comments on High Eagle Add Comment
Show which comments
By bone dry cappuccino
Jun 21, 2017
Has anyone been up there this year? Just wondering whether the road is drivable yet ...
By C Brooks
From: Fresno, CA
Jun 22, 2017
You will need full on 4x4 truck or Jeep to make it up.

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