High Eagle is one of the premier crags located near Friend Rock Camp. Most climbs are sport routes in the 5.10 - 5.12 range with a few mixed routes thrown in. Routes here tend to be quite long and require use of midway anchors to descend.
This whole area gets morning sun and the right side (Shape-Shifter, etc) gets shade earlier in the day.
The hike is mostly down hill takes about 15 minutes. Park at the pull-out for Friend Rock Camp just below the gate which leads to the shuteye ridge lookout. This is on road 6S059. 4WD is required to get here, see map
for details. Otherwise park at the 2WD pullout and hike an extra 10 minutes up the road to Friend Rock Camp.
From the camp locate the talon and look for a tree with a gap sawed in it that marks the start of the trail. There are also cairns here. Follow the obvious trail towards the very large dome on your right. Once you reach rock gulley head up hill, staying close to the wall and contour around the base. You will hit the Shape-shifter area first. Continue along the base until you must make a step around move to access the Main Wall.
Weather station 10.4 miles from here
28 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in High Eagle
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for High Eagle:
Raptor 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 40' Talon
Featured Route For High Eagle
Darth Vader 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a California
: Southern Sierra
: ... : Dark Side
Poor holds right off the ground lead to steep moves on good holds past the first bolt. (Stick clip useful). Romp up to the 3rd bolt and get a good rest. The fixed nut is pretty good and can be backed up with a .5 camalot or 1-1.5" piece. Fight up the overhanging layback to a stance and a bolt. Work left on good holds to a nice rest. Quest up the face past a mix of bolts and gear until you make it to a roof way up high. Pull another solid 5.11/11+ crux past closely spaced bolts. Some more easy cl...[more] Browse More Classics in California