High Eagle is one of the premier crags located near Friend Rock Camp. Most climbs are sport routes in the 5.10 - 5.12 range with a few mixed routes thrown in. Routes here tend to be quite long and require use of midway anchors to descend.
This whole area gets morning sun and the right side (Shape-Shifter, etc) gets shade earlier in the day.
The hike is mostly down hill takes about 15 minutes. Park at the pull-out for Friend Rock Camp just below the gate which leads to the shuteye ridge lookout. This is on road 6S059. 4WD is required to get here, see map
for details. Otherwise park at the 2WD pullout and hike an extra 10 minutes up the road to Friend Rock Camp.
From the camp locate the talon and look for a tree with a gap sawed in it that marks the start of the trail. There are also cairns here. Follow the obvious trail towards the very large dome on your right. Once you reach rock gulley head up hill, staying close to the wall and contour around the base. You will hit the Shape-shifter area first. Continue along the base until you must make a step around move to access the Main Wall.
Weather station 10.4 miles from here
28 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in High Eagle
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in High Eagle
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for High Eagle:
Raptor 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 40' Talon
Featured Route For High Eagle
War Eagle 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b California
: Southern Sierra
: ... : Aerie Dome
War Eagle is the striking line that begins as the trail turns away from the cliff, just right of the golden blunt arete. A moderate start leads to moves left at the 2nd bolt, then back right to the 3rd. A chain draw at the 5th bolt protects the crux, a powerful sequence featuring long pulls on crimps. Hero moves on surprisingly positive holds follow up the overhanging wall while the pump builds, culminating with a final balance sequence at the anchor. Superb movement, beautiful stone....[more] Browse More Classics in California