High Bluffs Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: The High Bluffs revival is finally complete! This ...
High Bluffs is a fantastic little crag near Lost Rocks. The routes became lost in time because the original bolts were overly rusted and poorly positioned, it has since gone through a full rebolting! The rock is very unique, with significant incut holds and cool pockets that make climbing very unique and enjoyable. Routes range from 5.8-5.11, the majority being 5.8. Most of the routes start on large boulders above the beach, and are safe from even very large waves (careful in winter). The position provides quite a thrill.
The area has just gone through a rebolting with massive 14mmx110mm titanium glue-ins. The rebolting is emphasizing good protection and safe climbing (solid bolts in the most solid rock, good clipping stances, and clean falls).
Take the Klamath Beach Road exit off of HW 101 and head west. After few minutes turn left following signs for High Bluffs Overlook. Another 3 minutes later, you'll take your first right onto a dirt road (Coastal Drive), and then an immediate left down past an open gate.
From the parking lot, walk down to the vista point, and head down a hidden path five feet left of the wooden fence. The trail opens up after a bit and heads southwest along the ridge. After 150 yards and near the end of the ridge, follow the path left to the two lone spruce trees.
CLIFF TOP ACCESS: From these two trees, turn right (west) and follow a fixed line across the top of the cliff. Do one 160' rappel with two ropes or two 80' raps.
LEAD ROUTE ACCESS: From these two trees, turn left (east) and follow a good path to the base of the cliff. At the base of the trail, find a suitable way down to the beach. When the creek isn't flowing, a black fixed line on your right will help you down to the beach. Each of the routes start on either one of the three large boulders, or down on the beach during low tide. Access the larger boulder by a short 4th class on the southeast corner.
High Bluffs is fantastic most times of the year, but like all coastal climbing, be sure to check the swell before heading out. Remember, winter usually comes with BIG swells, and will sometimes make the area unclimbable. The main boulder is 25' above sea level, so keep that in mind when looking at the tide and swell levels.
Climbing Season For the Redwood Coast area.
Weather station 2.5 miles from here
19 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in High Bluffs
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in High Bluffs
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for High Bluffs:
Ahab's Slab 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Land Ho! 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For High Bluffs
Cave Dweller 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b California
: Redwood Coast
: High Bluffs
Cave Dweller starts down in the gap between the second and third boulders, crouch through the depths of the cave to access the belay ledge. Stem up a bit to clip the first bolt, climb back down and climb out of the cave keeping off the rocks behind you. Many say that it may be harder than 10b down in the cave if the sequence isn't just right, please feel free to give it a consensus grade.Very good....[more] Browse More Classics in California
View from the beach, and the start of "Man Ov...
New Titanium Ram's Horns anchors are installed on ...
Aerial photo of High Bluffs from the California Co...
My redirected solo-TR set up for both Captain Weir...
Cool views towards Split Rock (No Climbing allowed...
By Evan Wisheropp
May 14, 2016
Don't miss the topo!
The High Bluffs revival is finally complete! This is the final, updated topo.
X = New bolts
Z = Old bolts in decent condition
1. 101 Slab (5.5)
2. Sailor Jerry's (5.10)
3. Me First Eyepatch (5.9+)
4. Cave Dweller (5.10b)
5. Land Ho! (5.8)
6. Hole In The Hull (5.8)
7. Ahab Slab (5.8)
8. Captain Albert Alexander (5.8)
9. Captain Weirdbeard (5.8)
10. Captain Longbeard (5.8+)
11. Gardyloo (5.4 PG13)
12. Captain Weirdbeard Original Start (5.9-5.10 gear, sand level dependent)
13. Rated Arrrgh! (5.10a PG13 gear)
14. No Man's Land (5.8)
15. Man Overboard (5.7)
16. Magellan's Voyage (5.10a)
17. Magellan's Shortcut (5.10b)
18. Cathulu's Reawakening (5.10d)
19. Journey to Valhalla (5.12?)
20. Guilty Pleasure (5.11)
By Audrianna Thompson
Jun 28, 2016
I wanted to ask if anyone had beta to add for High Bluffs climbing: camping/dirtbag stays? I'm heading out there soon and wanted to get some info on camping near the climb site. Looking at the local RV parks and KOAs, its ridiculously expensive! Thanks a million INA.
By Evan Wisheropp
Jun 28, 2016
The nearest camping is Flint Ridge, just a mile or so up the coastal drive from the High Bluffs gate. I hear it is an excellent excellent campsite, but I think you are supposted to register at the ranger station first. There is a no camping sign at the parking lot, either way, there isn't really anywhere to camp down there anyway. I'm sure sleeping in the car wouldn't count as camping. That's all I can think of in the immediate area. Hopefully that's somewhat helpful.