|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||G. Kirchhoff, M. Hess, June 2012|
|Submitted By:||Landon McBrayer on Jul 18, 2013|
|Comments on Hielo||Add Comment|
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By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jul 18, 2013
|Scary gritty knob climbing on spaced bolts. Don't fall anywhere on this route. A few more bolts would improve this one.|
Aug 10, 2014
"Back in the 1970s, climbings cognoscenti had ruled that bolts must be used only as a last resort. I learned to climb at Enchanted Rock near Austin, Texas, and at Quartz Mountain in Oklahoma, areas where face climbs might have one bolt every 50 feet if you were lucky. However, todays sport climbers frighten easily and the rules have changed. Many of the routes I cut my teeth on have been retro-bolted to assuage the fragile psyches of todays climbers. These days, bolts are placed no more than a body-length apart when the climbing is challenging. If you choose to engineer run outs into your sport climb (i.e. pass up obvious stances where a climber could clip a bolt), and allow todays squeamish tribe to experience a jolt of fear, they will pronounce your climb a shitpile and call you an asshole in the comments on Mountain Project. My rule of thumb is to bolt a climb so that I feel perfectly safe at all times and then add a couple."
This route was drilled on lead and is in character with many of the canyon's early first ascents.