|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Herb Laeger and Rich Smith, May 1977; FFA: Mike Lechlinski, Lynn Hill and John Long, November 1979|
|Submitted By:||C Miller on Jan 1, 2005|
|Comments on Hidden Arch||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Jan 10, 2003
|A total classic. The pro is good too, though it can be strenuous to place. Not really any chimney moves, but plenty of technical stemming and funky hand palms, etc. Rack from tiny nuts to 2-3 inch cams. Don't be disuaded from doing this route. Morning shade, afternoon sun.|
By Brian Treanor
Jan 24, 2006
|A true JTree classic. 5 stars on a scale of 1 to 4. The actual crux (for me) seemed short, but the whole bottom half of the climb keeps your attention. I climbed out of the arch near the bottom and the crux felt like pulling back in (and, as the route description notes, you are looking at an awkward, though not too dangerous, fall at that point). I seem to remember having a bit of a problem sinking a nut or cam at the beginning of the arch, but it has been years since I climbed this route and it was certainly my onsight limit at the time, so I was working pretty hard...|
Jan 3, 2007
This was my first time at JTree and I didn't get to climb many routes. But compared to some of the Eldorado classics, I'd say this is the best single pitch gear route I've ever climbed/tried. What a way to spend new year's day!
The hard part of the route can be protected well with small stoppers, though small (size 0) C3 or TCU equivalent will make placement much less strenuous (and apparently still too much for me.) I brought a #2 camalot for the wider part above the crux section, but the climb is easier at this section and can be replaced by a #1 camalot about a foot higher. There is a bolt anchor on the right face where the huge detached choke stone makes a tunnel with the dihedral.
From my limited experience, the route felt true to the rating. But falls from the crux are clean, so definitely give it a try.