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Hibatchi Time 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Clay Watson, Scott Keller 2004
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 220
Submitted By: tenesmus on Jun 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Top portion of Hibatchi Time

Description 

Belay out of the terrace in the middle of the stream bed by clipping a couple of bolts on vertical rock. Then easier climbing with gear placements up through a gap in a diagonal roof system with great medium gear(.9+). Step right and onto the upper headwall and finish on this headwall with two bolts at about 11a. However, it is a lot more fun to follow the diagonalling finger crack (5.9) up and left for 20-30 feet. Then around that face to easier ground cutting back right to the apex of the upper face. Two bolts with chains for the anchors that you can't see from the ground. A 60 meter rope just makes it back to the ground for the rappel so be careful when lowering or buy a 70. Its nice to belay the second from the sunporch up and out of the creek and pulling the rope from there drops it onto the tree and keeps it out of the creek.

Location 

This route is about 50 feet to the right of the last picnic tables and the route Wienie Roast. It starts right out of the stream bed and the belay has just enough dry rocks for your rope bag.

Protection 

Two bolts, standard rack, long draws. The .11a finish has two more bolts and you kinda have to connect the dots.


Photos of Hibatchi Time Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper half of hibachi time in red with two bolt .1...
Upper half of hibachi time in red with two bolt .1...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower Portion of Hibatchi Time
Lower Portion of Hibatchi Time
Rock Climbing Photo: The basic line for Hibatchi Time
The basic line for Hibatchi Time

Comments on Hibatchi Time Add Comment
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By sputtering zoso
Sep 1, 2006

This route is REALLY good. It is SOLID 5.9+ (unlike a lot of newer routes that seem very easy for the grade). Kudos to the FA's for seeing the line. I've walked by this several times and didn't have the vision. The start is obvious with the two bolts. Then climb easier rock up and right until you get into a steep left-facing dihedral. Place a bomber cam or two and punch the crux. After latching a "thank God" bucket, go up and slightly right (by a bush or some sort of plant life). Then follow the leftward traversing crack to keep it 5.9. This crack starts big (jamming optional) and narrows to finger locks. Hope this description wasn't redundant.
By tenesmus
Sep 7, 2006

Its nice to have a #3 camalot for about 3/4 height - at the bottom of that finger crack. Very glad you enjoyed!
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
Jun 21, 2016

Full value 9+! First comment sums up the route pretty well. Don't expect a gym climb sugar bagged excursion, but I suppose the mixed nature suggests this. I thought this was on par with High Dive at glass ocean, a bit more physical and less exposed than it. Also recommend the easier finish as the hand crack, to finger crack, to classic BCC arete is the bees knees. #3 at 3/4ths height is a good recommendation. This is the Industrial wall of Big Cottonwood, with the extra treat of gear :)
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
4 days ago

Note that this route starts left but finishes right of Salmonella. Great route and well protected. I TRed the bolted finish and thought climbing left of the bolts (where all the chalk was) was only 10-.

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