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YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 600', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 18,975
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2002

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The long second pitch.

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A superb, moderate route, as good as White Whale. Like that route it is actually on the Left Book, which, although it is part of the Book, requires you to follow the turnoff for the Bookmark (situated in front of the Book) and scramble around west of that rock to the base of the slabby Left Book, which could perhaps even more accurately be termed the "west Book". Confused? If not, you might yet have trouble finding the exact line of the route. The belays are all shared with White Whale, hence the first pitch heads up to a small tree.

P1-Start right of the continuous crack of White Whale, directly below a roof band. climb up a thin dead end crack, make some moves up and left across the slab (sparse pro), go around the left end of the roof, and belay at the tree.

P2-go right from the tree to an obvious pillar with a wide crack that tapers to nothing. When that ends, head up and left to make a belay (full rope-length).

P3-climb a short crack, then traverse off left, or head straight up nebulous 5.7 terrain to the walk-off ledge (avoiding at all costs a water-worn groove which appears easier than it is).

P4-addendum: Move right, and continue up 5.9 to a topless tree to a small, triangular roof.


Standard rack; the second pitch has an easy wide crack for which one bigger piece such as a #4 Friend might be nice. Make sure you have at least a normal allowance of small gear.

Photos of Hiatus Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The line with options.
BETA PHOTO: The line with options.
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming up P-3 of Hiatus.
Coming up P-3 of Hiatus.
Rock Climbing Photo: "A bit slabby".
"A bit slabby".
Rock Climbing Photo: Lot's of "hands free" stances on the sec...
Lot's of "hands free" stances on the sec...
Rock Climbing Photo: Traversing below the roof on the first pitch.
Traversing below the roof on the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: P3 near topping out, guess it's really the Dog fin...
P3 near topping out, guess it's really the Dog fin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Difficult overhang on the summit pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Difficult overhang on the summit pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Red variation described below in my comments.
BETA PHOTO: Red variation described below in my comments.
Rock Climbing Photo: P2: Kody, where you have to trust feet and look ar...
P2: Kody, where you have to trust feet and look ar...
Rock Climbing Photo: P3: Kody pulling up on the knob above the optional...
BETA PHOTO: P3: Kody pulling up on the knob above the optional...
Rock Climbing Photo: P2 in its entirety from second belay. Had big cams...
BETA PHOTO: P2 in its entirety from second belay. Had big cams...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me starting the route... the dreaded roof can be s...
Me starting the route... the dreaded roof can be s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Break time on the way up!
Break time on the way up!
Rock Climbing Photo: Deb leading P1 of Hiatus.
Deb leading P1 of Hiatus.
Rock Climbing Photo: Top o' Left Book.
Top o' Left Book.
Rock Climbing Photo: Barry starting to sew up P2
Barry starting to sew up P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Scoping out the 5.9 finish. We turned the triangle...
BETA PHOTO: Scoping out the 5.9 finish. We turned the triangle...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan Keller on variation approaching 1st belay.
Ryan Keller on variation approaching 1st belay.

Comments on Hiatus Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 4, 2017
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 13, 2002
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Agreed that this is a great route. However, it's harder than White Whale despite sharing belays. The 1st pitch has 2 solid cruxes for a 5.7 leader. The P1 variation going straight over the roof is very intimidating for the 5.8 described Rossiter's guide. Big hexes are very useful for the 1st belay because you might like some bigger cams for the start of the 2nd pitch. A #4 Camalot is oh so nice. Definitely worth the effort.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 14, 2002

You don't need gear for the first belay as you can sling a solid tree.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 14, 2002
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A few disadvantages to slinging the tree: 1) you are in the way for those doing White Whale, 2) it is less comfortable to belay there, 3) you'd have to depend upon a tree - known to be less than reliable over the years, 4) it lengthens 2nd pitch (can be a rope stretcher with a 50m). Plus, a big hex isn't that heavy.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 19, 2005

The fact that White Whale and this climb have the same rating points to the nebulous nature of ratings. This climb imho is significantly harder along with some not so easy runouts. Protecting the second pitch (which is great climbing, the best part of the climb) undercling crack is a bit problematic, even too big for a 4 Camalot until you are a significant way above a nasty ledge. It begins to take good pro about half way up but then it fades away to nothing and again you are forced to run it out. Good climbing but not for the faint of heart.
By Bill Morris
Jun 26, 2005

I agree with Leo. Don't sling the tree for your first belay fellas. Speaking from a guide's point of view (used to guide this route) and 29 years of climbing, you'll only plug up the way for guys coming up White Whale. Two parties can easliy fit on this ledge simultaneously without gettin' in each others' way if you move your belay to below the start of the dihedral.
By craggin carl
Aug 2, 2005

Climbed this again today, Pitch one and two can run with a little simul climbing,

Also found a stopper on P2 at the belay, post to identify and I will get it back to you.
By Charles Danforth
From: L'ville, CO
May 22, 2006

Nice route. We belayed from the spatious ledge above the White Whale tree, then headed up the dihedral (great!). Instead of heading left under the roof and joining White Whale, we went right and joined up with what turns out to be Beelzebub. Belay at the right edge of the "second" of two eyebrows/roofs in a precarious stance, then pull the roof (crux) and wander up 40' of 5.8s slab to Paperback Ledge. Walk off. If you've already done White Whale, this is a different, significantly harder variation well worth your time. The second pitch is fantastic!
Sep 13, 2007

What is the approach for this climb like?
By DavidHH
From: Parker, Colorado
Sep 14, 2007

From the new parking lot, the approach is close to 2 miles. The first 1.5 miles are extremely enjoyable and pretty much rolling and the last 0.5 mile is uphill. Elevation is probably around 9500' or so this could make things more difficult if you are not used to it. Usually takes me between 30-40 minutes.
By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
May 22, 2008

Better P2 than White Whale, no question.
By Steve Knapp
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Sep 7, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

This is a sweet route, our second at Lumpy. We only did two pitches and walked off. P1 seems the most spicy and is a bit run out. The crack disappears and you must make some moves on the face below the roof. Traversing below the roof is tough too with questionable gear. P2 is super classic and a lot of fun. Nice layback on the dihedral allowing you to weight the feet. When the crack disappears up high you can stem out to another crack to the left. I really loved P2.
By Theo Barker
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 7, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Did this today with my son. Very enjoyable this time. Didn't see another soul from the time we left the BC trail, 'til we were back at the parking lot.

Used double ropes. Definitely helped with the route wandering at times. I.e. when passing the White Whale belay tree, just clipped one rope to it and had the other hanging free, clipped to pro that was further down and climbers right. Didn't quite feel up to exploring around the roof to the right. Next time...

P3, Left the belay to the left, but then stepped back to the right to where Leo shows, and pulled the knob and horizontal cracks to the right of the WW P3. Added a little more face work to the climb. Nice for a change.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Sep 14, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The pitch 2 crack gets smaller the deeper you put the cam into it, so you can place a #3 low and then a #4 all within 20 ft. of the ledge. It's a stretch to reach in and get them, but it's not tight.

The variation Roland and I did went up this crack until you get to the top of the column. Move right instead of left and you are looking at a small roof/flake with a hand-sized crack running through it. Plug a cam and match hands right of the crack and climb up (5.8). There is a wide crack that flares out above that fits a #3, #2, and down at the bottom a .5. The seat makes a great belay and gives a great view of the Bookend. This is right above the Beelzebub dihedral.

Pitch 3 then goes up left in the seam just right of the small roof with a tiny tree on top of it. Place two cams in this crack and run out easy terrain to another set of cracks before the large tree and the descent ledge. It's easy to get onto hard ground, so pick your path.
By Cale Farnham
Sep 29, 2008

Stellar climb and the moves were awesome! Fell on the way down, kinda loose and slippery but overall great line!
By Debbie Vischer
From: Loveland
Oct 31, 2008

Super fun route. Great moves and nice variation for a 5.7+. We missed the short (?) third pitch and ran out P2 for a full 60M rope length, ending at a small ledge next to the walk-off.
By Andy Novak
From: Golden, Co
Jan 20, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

P2 features lots of classic Lumpy slab footwork. Easy, but you better have seasoned calves to deal with the pump. And I think the pro up top when leaving the corner is..tricky. Have your .7+ head on. Great route and a great intro to the world of Lumpy Ridge.

By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Jun 1, 2009

What a classic route. I would say the 1st pitch is the crux, but the second is the best lieback crack around. I like the #3 as my 1st piece, in the dyhedral, and followed by a #4, or run in out to thinner pro 20 ft up. but don't take a fall on the ledge. 4 stars.
By Wade Frank
From: Littleton, CO
Aug 24, 2009

I enjoyed this climb a lot more than White Whale which was also a great climb.
By goatboywonder Patrick
Oct 1, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Posted a TR here
By Scott McMahon
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Moves can be a bit thin in places. I wouldn't jump on this unless you don't mind run out friction moves.


To sew it up bring at least 3 big pieces (#3.5, #4.5, #5 old Camalot or the corresponding new C4s) for the fat crack. I'd recommend only cams since you're placing at your ankles. Sliding didn't work as well as I hoped and you're directly above a ledge. Try to get gear in early, when it's gone it's gone.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Aug 11, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

One #4 Camalot is adequate for the second pitch. The old (pre C4) #4 fits better than the new ones. I know because I had both but only placed one.
By ozman
From: CO / NM
Jul 7, 2011

Great route. We climbed on the 4th of July weekend, so it was packed. We climbed Hiatus when White Whale was busy, then some other 3 pitch crack system to the left of the Whale, and yet another 3 pitch line after that on the left in a right-facing corner which was awesome. It was crowded, but if you're willing to try another line, the wall is yours. First time at Lumpy, but definitely not my last. Great time/weather/scenery.
By Sean Haney
Nov 13, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The runout on P1 isn't bad as others suggest. Maybe 10ft between pieces at one point, but nothing to hit if you fall. Big cams are definitely recommended for P2, although it felt like you could almost walk up the lieback with no hands. Didn't get to the 3rd pitch since we thought we were coming back to do White Whale. The first two pitches felt 2-3 full grades easier than Melvin's Wheel just down the hill.
By Pete eye
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 11, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If you look straight up when on the walk off ledge, there is a fun line. Go through/up and to the left of the black streak to a roof that you top out to easy terrain. It is not named in Gillett guide, but it's identified. It was pretty fun (and a little weird) but clearly doesn't get any traffic, and it is about 5.7 or so terrain I think. Wondering about the history, if anyone knows?
By Daniel Joder
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 4, 2017

My partner led P2 and never placed the #4 boat anchor we hauled up there even though he tried several times. It would have been pretty tipped out. A #5 bigger boat anchor would have been better. He eventually got into #3 territory pretty quickly, though. This P2 is an amazing pitch--be prepared to work those little nubbins and smears!

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